Ladies Attractive Calling Outfits 184 T and 185 T - 1900
Ladies' Jacket and Skirt No. 184 T
The Eton modes still hold sway and are ensured popularity for the coming season. The one forming a part of this attractive outfit is shown made of cloth in one of the pastel tones of gray, with appliqués of luxurious lace and bands of darker fabric outlined with gilt braid for garniture.
The jacket is snugly adjusted and closes in double-breasted style with large fancy buttons. The fronts are turned back above the closing in large revers, and a high Hare collar is an attractive feature of the mode.
The sleeves are in two-seam coat style but may be in bell fashion, if preferred, the pattern supporting both effects. Following the present demands of Fashion, the coat dips at the front and has the extended shoulders that give the desired military air.
The circular skirt accords with the Eton in material and trimming, except that on the skirt the lace appliqués are omitted. It is also shown on the first cover page, in which connection it is fully described.
In dark-gray tweed, with self-strappings and gun-metal buttons for the closing, the costume will be extremely attractive.
The result will be highly satisfactory if the outfit is made of dark-green broadcloth, with chinchilla for the collar and revers. Serge, homespun, Cheviot, camels-hair, etc., are suitable, and the decoration may be simple or elaborate.
The jacket pattern, which is No. 4539 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is differently pictured on page 601.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4487 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is again shown on page 613 of this magazine.
Ladies’ Double-Breasted Eton Jacket or Coat No. 4539
No. 4539 Ladies’ Double-Breasted Eton Jacket or Coat, with Coat or Bell Sleeves, and with or without a Centre-Back Seam.
For Description see Page 607.
This jacket is shown on page 601, and in figure No. 184 T in this magazine.
A high flare collar that makes the garment protective, as well as stylish, is a feature of the mode, which is developed in tan light-weight Melton finished with stitching.
The back may be made with or without a center seam, and the adjustment at the front and sides is due to single bust darts and side-hack gores.
The fronts are semi-fitted and lap and close in double-breasted fashion, and above the closing, they are turned back in rounding rovers that lap to the throat.
They extend in dip fashion below the waist-line and show the long effect from shoulder to bust that is an essential item of current modes.
Short vents are formed below the side-back seams, and the lower edge of the garment is rounded prettily at the center of the back and front.
The two-seam sleeves may be in coat style or belled gracefully at the bottom, both effects being supported in the pattern, and the shoulders are extended, in accord with the latest decree of Fashion.
The collar is gored and rolls away gracefully in front, and the center seam may be continued to the top or ended a short distance from the upper edge, as illustrated.
In Persian lamb the garment will be decidedly handsome, and, if desired, the collar might be faced with chinchilla or another contrasting fur.
Melton, covert cloth, broadcloth, Venetian, and tailored fabrics of all kinds are suitable for the reproduction of the mode, with braid or stitched strappings for the finish.
We have pattern No. 4539 in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure.
For a lady of medium size, the jacket needs a yard and five-eighths of goods fifty- four inches wide.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Circular Skirt No. 4487
No. 4487 Ladies’ Circular Skirt, with Inverted Box-Plait at the Back; and having a Scalloped Circular Flounce Set On, from Beneath which the Skirt may be Cut Away.
To be made with the Conventional or Decided Dip at the Top, and in Short-Sweep or Round Length.
For Description see Page 616.
This skirt is illustrated on page 613, in figures Nos. 184 T and 208 T, and on the first cover page.
An applied circular, rippling flounce that shows a scalloped upper outline is an interesting feature of the skirt, which is made of mode cloth, with a machine-stitched strapping of the material for the decorative finish.
The skirt is of circular shaping and is dart-fitted over the hips; it has the fashionable Marie Antoinette dip at the top that may be conventional or more pronounced, according to individual preference.
The skirt may be in round or short-sweep length at the bottom wherein the medium sizes it measures about three yards and one-fourth, and the flounce about four yards and one-fourth.
The fullness at the back is laid in an inverted box-plait, and the skirt may end at the top of the flounce or extend beneath it.
Wide fabrics are recommended for reproducing the mode, and braid, machine-stitching or strappings of the material, silk or satin may be applied as a finish.
We have pattern No. 4487 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-eight and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip, if it is to extend under the flounce, needs three yards and one-half of fabric fifty-eight inches wide, and if it is to be cut away from beneath the frill, three yards of material in the same width.
Ladies' Coat and Skirt No. 185 T
A coat of sealskin decorated with mink and a skirt of gray taffeta, with bands of the same and fancy stitching and buttons for garniture, are here united in reproducing an attractive costume.
The skirt is a stylish mode, having a front-gore that extends to the belt and two circular portions that are seamed to a smooth yoke at the sides and back.
It falls in graceful flutes below the hips and at the back and may be in round or short-sweep length, and at the top has the fashionable Marie Antoinette dip.
The coat is snug at the back and fronts, the latter being dart-fitted. It is somewhat deeper than those ordinarily seen and may be made longer, the pattern providing for both styles.
A high flare collar with rounding corners to correspond with the fronts gives neck completion, and the close-fitting two-seam sleeves are trimmed in round cuff style with a band of the mink.
The fashionable long shoulder effect is given, and mink heads and tails emphasize the closing at the throat.
The coat is especially desirable for fur, velvet, velour, heavy cloth, etc. A coat of Astrakhan could have the collar and sleeves trimmed with chinchilla or any other suitable fur.
The skirt may be of cloth, vailing, cashmere, etc., and braid, appliqué lace or self-strappings will give proper completion.
A velvet coat shows an edge finish of Persian lamb and the collar is made entirely of this rich fur. With it is suitably worn a skirt of dark automobile-red cloth trimmed with tinsel braid.
The coat pattern, which is No. 4500 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is also shown on page 599.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4406 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure.
Ladies’ Coat No. 4500
No. 4500 Ladies’ Coat Closed to the Neck. Desirable for Fur, Velvet, Velour, Heavy Cloth, etc.
To be made with Round or Square Corners and In Either of Two Lengths.
For Description see Page 606
This coat is illustrated on page 599, and in figure No. 185 T in this number of The Delineator. For freezing weather, such a jacket developed in black velour will be found particularly useful.
The garment, which is also desirable for fur, velvet, heavy cloth, etc., extends well over the hips and may be made in either of two lengths.
It shows the extended shoulders that are so stylish a feature just at present, and the close adjustment is achieved by single bust darts and the regulation seams, the closing being made invisibly at the center of the front.
A high gored collar that flares stylishly and may be square or rounded to correspond with the lower corners gives completion at the neck, and the two-seam sleeves are carefully adjusted.
A dressy garment might be developed in heavy silk appliquéd with cloth, and the collar and edges of the front faced with chinchilla sealskin, stone marten or another suitable fur.
Rich silk or satin linings are generally used, and for extra warmth, an interlining of flannel or sheet wadding may be added.
We have pattern No. 4500 in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the coat requires three yards and one-half of material thirty inches wide. Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
Price of pattern, Is. or 25 cents.
Ladies Skirt 4406
Ladies’ Skirt Closed at the Left Side: Consisting of a Front-Gore Extending to the Belt and Two Circular Portions Seamed to a Yoke at the Sides and Back.
To Have the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and In Round or Short Sweep Length at the Bottom.
Illustrations see Page 456 | Described on Page 462
This skirt is shown differently made up in figures Nos. 143 T, 152 T and 163 T in this number of THE DELINEATOR.
The sheath-like adjustment over the hips and the dip at the top of the front are points of interest in the skirt here shown made of gray cloth, finished with rows of machine-stitching, and closed above the left side front seam.
The skirt includes a front-gore that extends to the belt and two circular sections that are joined to a smooth yoke and have their fullness at the back laid in an under-folded box-plait.
The yoke shapes a point at the lower edge of the back and each lower front corner, and the dip may be slight or very decided, as preferred.
The mode may be in round or short sweep length and ripples attractively toward the foot, wherein the medium sizes the skirt measures about three yards and one-half.
Broadcloth, Venetian or covert cloth, serge, Cheviot, and all tailored fabric, as well as wailing, cashmere, étamine, drap d’été, etc., are suitable for the development of the mode.
We have pattern No. 4406 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-eight and a half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip requires three yards and one-half of fabric fifty inches wide.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
“Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 571 to 591 Inclusive,” in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York-Toronto: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LXI, No. 5, November 1900, p. 572, 592, 599, 601, 606-608, 613, 616-617.
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.