Vintage Fashion Houses & Designers
Rue de la Paix, or within a stone's throw of there, are the celebrated style creators—Beer, Cheruit, Dufuillet, Doucet, Jenny, Lanvin, Madeleine & Madeleine, Paquin, Paul Poiret, Premet, Redfern, Worth.
The Parisian style artists, when questioned about their art, are very careful to explain that they are not concerned with the styles that are popular today, but with the styles that are going to be popular tomorrow.
They are. according to their own bashful admissions, dress prophets. This may be true; but I would like to go on record to the effect that If any weather prophet or stock-market prophet were to make as many errors in prophecy as the Parisian drew prophets make he would be obliged to quit the prophecy business and devote himself to the haw subtle art of coal shoveling or brick passing.
Charming Afternoon Gowns, Designed for Gentle women, and a Most Interesting Line of Tailleurs, Lavishly Braided, Are Shown by This House.
The fashion at Lanvin's is gay, alert, youthful; one feels here an inexhaustible mine of ideas, a vigorous imagination and a love of detail such as is rarely found even in Paris. If Lanvin chooses to cultivate a hitherto neglected period, the early Victorian, she embellishes it extremely and makes it quaint and pretty.
Bulloz is too well known everywhere to need any praise as a couturier, but as an artist, he shows a life of tremendous activity coupled with inexhaustible creative power.
The collection shown by Beer is one of the successes of the season. It is elegant without eccentricity and never for a moment dull. he tailor-mades are agreeably varied; we are far from one stereotyped model.
One of the largest and best collections of tailor-mades and coats I have ever seen is that shown by Bernard. Although all the other branches of the sartorial art are equally well represented here, the tailleurs stand out as models of elegance.
A very large collection is shown by Drecoll. Tailor-mades are particularly numerous and well represented. Good mixed stuffs, duvetyns, and velvets in browns and black form the bulk of the costumes.
Jean Patou has but lately established himself in the rue Saint Florentin with the firm intention of succeeding. His extraordinary capabilities, both as manager and creator of models, have been proven by an ever-increasing stream of American buyers.
The old firm of Jeanne Hallée now belongs to M. Kamp and is directed by his wife, Madame Suzanne, who has made a great success of the much-restored establishment.
Lelong is a house of old standing renovated and made thoroughly up to date by its director and owner, Monsieur Lelong. That he has made a success of it is apparent from the fact that under his management his firm has more than doubled its list of buyers. The well-known artist and designer, Soulié, is one of his most precious aides.
Melnotte-Simonin is one of the Rue de la Paix's youngest recruits; he has created in his salons a most delightful home-like atmosphere as a fitting surrounding to his most Parisian models. Color is All-Important Factor for Parisian Designer Who Urges Liberal Use of Warm and Vivid Shades for Chic Beltless Frocks with Flaring Hems.
Paul Poiret's re-appearance since the Armistice has been hailed with delight by the many who admired his creative genius before the war. It suffices to add that the management of his house is the same and his ideas better than ever.
The establishment of John Tollmann is pervaded by his interesting personality. His great love of color and scenic effects have made him famous as a stage decorator and costumer.
Madame Alice Bernard, the indefatigable head of the house, was ten years with Poiret, one of his most precious auxiliaries. When Poiret closed during the war, she transferred to Jeanne Lanvin's.
The Place Vendôme, for many years the center of Parisian elegance—the home of higher dressmaking circles, boasts no smarter or better-known firm than Premet, of which M. Winter is the able director.
The house of Worth, which has dressed queens for half a century, still keeps from father to son its reputation of unrivalled elegance. The style at Worth's is most varied, while he keeps up his reputation for dazzling evening gowns.
Maurice Mayer, the well-known tailor, went into partnership a year ago with an equally old Parisian, Bulloz, who manages the firm. The happiest results have been received from this connection. The efforts of their reputed designer, Madame Burling, contribute to make their collection this winter unique.
An extensive and brilliant collection is that shown by Cheruit—consistent in the sense that the same remarkably clear, good line is preserved throughout, and very varied as to stuffs, colors, and trimmings.
A quiet, distinguished note, no matter how extreme the fashion,
is characteristic of Doeuillet. His dresses are eminently wearable and adapted to daily life, not theatrical effects.
With Her Own Looms and Producing Her Own Models, Dorat Offers Many Charming Numbers for the Winter Season. Favorably known as specialists in knitted goods, the young house of Dorat is rapidly making a name in higher dressmaking fields.
Simplicity and great unity of color and design, mark the creations of Mme. Jenny. The entire collection presents a straight unbroken silhouette, very chic and plain but for the various embroideries; the craze for rich, elaborate trimmings is present everywhere, and we may congratulate the Parisian dressmakers on the ingenuity displayed to make them different.
Madeleine et Madeleine, established just a year before, have found it necessary to enlarge their premises under growing success. The first Madeleine used to be with Drecoll, the second Madeleine with Jeanne Hallée. This young and promising house is financed by a group of old French nobility among whom are the Comte de Munand Comte Hubert de Montégut.
Martial et Armand, established in 1902, has been completely renovated and we may say rejuvenated by its present directress, Madame Vallet. Thanks to her alert supervision and excellent personal taste, this firm grows in repute every season.
Duvetyns and Corduroy in bright blues and browns, with little fur trimming, used for suits and dresses for this house. Although barely a year old, the house of Molyneux is the most promising of junior firms, its success lastingly confirmed by a daring winter collection.
Madame Nicole Groult, wife of the celebrated decorator, founded her house ten years ago and became well-known at once by her original ideas and personal way of adapting them to clothes. She comes honestly by talent as the sister of Paul Poiret.
The director of this rising house, M. de Fontenay, began his career with Paquin, went from there to Lucile's, with whom he was connected for many years. His business capacity and taste have been proven by the excellent designers and workers he has selected for his new premises, 2 rue de la paix, which bid fair to rival our greatest houses.