Ladies’ Shirt-Waists and Sleeves 7381 7380 7429 - 1904
No. 7380 is here illustrated in Russian-blue liberty satin, stitched panne velvet of a slightly darker shade being used for elaboration.
An “1830” tab yoke is the salient feature of this pretty shirt-waist, No. 7381; Ciel-blue peau de soie, velvet, buttons and fancy ornaments were used.
Feather-stitched tucks adorn this shirt-waist, No. 7429, of oyster-white Louisine, crocheted rings and a brown kid belt adding to the effect.
Ladies’ Tucked Shirt-Waist No. 7381
7381—Ladies’ Tucked Shirt-Waist, with Tab Yoke in “1830” Style and with or without the Lining.
Tan kersey afforded a particularly pleasing development of the chic shirt-waist here depicted. Brass buttons and machine-stitching gave a decorative touch.
Gathers regulate the fulness of the fronts and back, the former being tucked, while the latter is plain across the top.
The necessary “1830” suggestion is imparted by a tab yoke that is seamed on the shoulders. A military closing is affected, and a narrow band supports the standing collar.
Tucks are arranged in the sleeves, which are fashionably full below the elbow and are confined in bands and cuffs matching the yoke in outline.
Dart-fitted fronts and a back seamed at the center compose the body lining; which may be used or not, the use of the two-seam sleeve linings also being a matter of preference.
A shirt-waist in white crepe de Chine might have a tab yoke and collar and cuffs of lace, or almond-green cashmere will unite effectively with chiffon velvet and fringe. Velveteen, taffeta, Louisine, Liberty satin, peau de soie and albatross will yield attractive results, and if fancied, medallions of lace may be used to trim.
Pattern 7381 is in 7 sizes from 32 to 44 inches, bust measure.
For the medium size, it needs 4 yards of material 27 inches wide or 2 3/8 yards 44 inches wide.
Price, 20 cents.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist No. 7380
7380—Ladies’ Shirt-Waist, with Bishop or Shirt Sleeves and Epaulette Yoke or Shoulder Straps, and with or Without the Body Lining.
An epaulette yoke, plain, or pointed in front, or straps extending over the shoulders, may be used to give a military air to the shirt-waist here depicted.
Mercerized vesting was selected for its development, and machine-stitching and buttons provide an attractive finish.
Fulness is allowed at the waist-line, both in the back and fronts, and the latter are gathered also at the neck.
Closing is made at the front through a simulated box-plait, and the neck is completed by a narrow band supporting a standing collar.
Pointed cuffs complete the bishop sleeves, which may be replaced by shirt sleeves with laps and link cuffs. A crush belt is worn.
French flannel in any of the fashionable colors will make up prettily; pipings of green might be used on hunter’s-red, and brass buttons will add a chic note.
Shoulder straps of white cloth will lend distinction to a shirt-waist of white corduroy. Broadcloth, kersey, plaids, stripes, Lansdowne, taffeta and Louisine are also recommended, and hand embroidery will decorate effectively.
Pattern 7380 is in 8 sizes from 32 to 46 inches, bust measure. For medium size, it needs 3 3/4 yards of material 27 inches wide. Price, 20 cents.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist No. 7429
7429—Ladies’ Shirt-Waist Closed in Front, Tucked in Double Box-Plait Effect, and with or without the Body Lining. (Known as the Gibson Shirt-Waist.)
The new “Gibson” shirt-waists are distinctive in style and not difficult of construction. The one here illustrated is of mercerized cotton hopsack, and no trimming is employed, machine-stitching providing a suitable finish.
A four-piece lining may be used, and the waist consists of a back and fronts, with tucks arranged to give the effect of double box-plaits, those at the sides extending over the sleeves, affording fashionable breadth to the shoulders, and tapering toward the waist-line.
The closing is made at the front under the center plait. Gathers are employed to draw the back in at the waist, and to regulate the fulness of the pouching fronts, and a standing collar conceals the neck-band.
Tucks simulating box-plaits are also arranged in the sleeves, the lower part forming full puffs over the buttoned cuffs, and two-seam linings are supplied for support, but are not always necessary.
Pongee would be pretty for duplicating this design, and lace insertion, or medallions might be used on each plait, or Oriental embroidery would afford effective contrast on the collar, cuffs and belt.
Cream-white Lansdowne will also be appropriate for this style of shirt-waist and may be elaborated with rows of narrow gold braid.
All the mercerized cottons, damas, taffeta, Louisine, peau de soie, messlinette, French flannel and broadcloth are suitable for reproduction.
Pattern 7429 is in 7 sizes from 32 to 44 inches, bust measure. For the medium size, it needs 3 7/8 yards of material 27 inches wide. Price, 20 cents.
“Ladies Shirt-Waists and Sleeves [No. 7381, 7380 & 7429],” in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York-Toronto: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LXIII, No. 2, February 1904, p. 202-203.
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.