Ladies' Morning Dress and Blouse 156 T & 157 T - 1900
Described on Page 446 | For Illustrations see Page 433
Ladies’ Watteau Wrapper No. 150 T
Figured vailing was selected for the development of the wrapper with dark-blue satin for the sailor collar and cuff facings and a blue satin ribbon of a similar shade for the scarfs. The wrapper has a Watteau that falls out gracefully into the train and is carefully adjusted at the sides.
The fullness in the front hangs free from the neck and is framed at the top by the broad ends of the sailor collar, which is decorated with narrow gilt braid. The collar is deep and square m the back, and a high stock completes the neck.
The bell sleeves end a short distance below the elbow, where they are turned back in cuff effect. A long scarf having fringed ends and formed in a rosette at the bust and blouse is arranged at each side of the fullness in the front and lends grace to the wrapper, which is made with a sweep.
Louisine, crepe de Chine, Liberty satin, surah, cashmere, Henrietta, Lansdowne, albatross, challis, and fine flannel, as well as cotton crepe, and lawn will develop becoming garments of this description.
The pattern, which is No. 4459 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure, and is shown again on page 440.
Ladies’ Watteau Tea-Gown or Wrapper No. 4459
No. 4459 Ladies’ Watteau Tea-Gown or Wrapper with Sailor Collar and Bell Sleeves. (To be made in Round or Conventional Sweep Length.)
For Illustration see Page 440 | For Description see Page 449
This gown is illustrated again in figure No. 156 T in this magazine.
A broad sailor-collar and Watteau back are distinguishing features of the graceful tea-gown or wrapper here depicted made of blue silk-warp Henrietta combined with a lighter shade of blue silk and decorated with lace insertion.
The back is laid in a box-plait at the center, the plait falling free from the neck to the lower edge, and side-seams connect the back with the full fronts, which are smoothly adjusted at the sides by underarm darts extending well over the hips.
The fronts are gathered at the neck at each side of the center, the fulness falling unconfined to the lower edge, where the garment may be in round or standard sweep length. The sailor collar is deep and square at the back and has broad stole ends that frame the fullness in the fronts.
The fullness is further outlined by soft scarfs of silk arranged in rosettes at the termination of the sailor collar and again at the waist, where they are held in position and below fall free to the edge of the garment.
The sleeve is in comfortable loose two-seam bell style and has the lower part turned back to form a cuff. A plain standing collar gives completion to the neck, and the wrapper has a short dart-fitted body-lining. The invisible closing is made at a convenient depth at the center of the front.
An exquisite tea-gown, cool and dainty in appearance, could be reproduced by the mode in pale-green Lansdowne with white all-over lace over white silk for the collar and cuffs and white chiffon for the scarfs.
An inexpensive wrapper could be evolved from figured crimson-and-black challis, and the decoration could be narrow fancy braid and ribbon. Flannel, cashmere, vailing, delaine, lawn, etc., are other materials which may be successfully employed for the development.
We have pattern No. 4459 in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure.
To make the tea-gown for a lady of medium size requires five yards and three-eighths of fabric forty-four inches wide with three yards of silk twenty inches wide for the collars, scarfs and for facing the reversed portions of the sleeves.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist No. 157 T
Figure No. 157 T illustrates a Ladies’ shirt-waist.
The chief charm of this stylish shirt-waist is its simplicity. Taffeta perlé, pin-spotted shot silk, was here selected for the blouse, which has full fronts that puff out becomingly, being gathered at the top and the waistline.
The back is perfectly smooth across the shoulders and has only the slightest gathered fulness at the bottom. The soft-rolled cuff is an exciting feature of the one-seam sleeve, which is slashed at the back of the wrist.
A removable standing collar and satin tie give completion at the neck, and a fancy belt is worn.
Cashmere, serge, cotton faille, challis, French flannel, taffeta, surah and India silk, and many similar fabrics will develop the blouse satisfactorily, and if an elaborate effect is liked, let-in rows of lace may be added to the fronts.
The pattern, which is No. 4411 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is differently shown on page 448.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse No. 4411
No. 4411 Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse with Soft-Rolled Cuff. (To be made with or without the Lining or Bust-Stay.)
For Description see Page 456 | For Illustrations see Page 448
Other views of this blouse are shown in figures Nos. 157 T and 164 T in this magazine.
For the present development of the pretty shirt-waist madras in a soft shade of yellow was chosen with stitching for completion.
The back is broad and seamless and has slight gathered fulness at the line of the waist, where a circular skirt extension is added, making the back of equal length with the fronts and doing away with unnecessary fulness under the skirt.
The fronts are gathered at the neck and for a short distance along the shoulders; they are also gathered at the waistline where they pouch softly, and the closing is made at the center through a box- plait.
The comfortably close one-piece sleeve is distinguished by a soft-rolled cuff that closes with links, and the opening at the back of the arm is finished with a continuous lap.
A standing collar is worn over the fitted neck-band, and a lining adjusted with single bust darts, underarm gores, and a center-back seam is included in the pattern; it may, however, be replaced by a bust-stay, but the use of either is a matter of taste. A leather belt encircles the waist.
Embroidered taffeta will reproduce the mode attractively, but plain fabrics both in woolen and washable materials are also used, stitching giving the most desired finish. A pretty shirt-waist was of pale-blue Lansdowne, and with it were wearing a belt and stock of white satin ribbon.
We have pattern No. 4411 in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure.
To make the shirt-waist for a lady of medium size will require two yards and one-eighth of material thirty-six inches wide.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
"Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 433, 440, 446, 448-449, 456.
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.