Ladies Effective Indoor Outfits 196 T & 197 T - 1900
Ladies' Blouse and Skirt No. 196 T
A decided innovation in blouses is shown at this figure, the shoulders being lengthened to fit the plain top of the two-seam sleeve, which bells stylishly over the hand.
The back is gored to the shoulder, and the blouse is designed to give the Juno or Hebe bust effect that is now the admiration of the fashionable world.
The blouse shows pretty fulness at the neck and waist, and the center box-plait that is such a characteristic of shirt-waist styles is decorated with groups of tiny buttons.
A high stock completes the blouse, which is developed in figured silk showing delicate pastel tones. A leather belt is worn, and machine-stitching gives a neat finish.
A tucked circular flounce distinguishes the skirt, for which dark silk was here chosen, with insertion and stitching for garniture. The skirt is fully described at figure No. 189 T.
Vailing, crepe de Chine, and all sorts of silks will develop the skirt, with ribbon or lace for decoration, and the blouse may be reproduced in a host of cotton fabrics.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4473 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure and is represented again on page 606.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4534 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure, and is shown in a different development on page 612.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse No. 4473
No. 4473 Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse, with Gored Back, and having the Shoulders Lengthened to Fit a Sleeve Plain at the Top. (To be Made with Or Without the Fitted Lining or Bust-Stay.) (For Description see Page 613.)
Illustrations of this blouse are given on page 606, and also in figure No. 196 T in this magazine.
The fashionable long shoulder effect, and also the Juno bust, are emphasized in the shirt-waist, which is shown made of hydrangea-blue French flannel, with small pearl buttons and rows of stitching for the decorative finish.
The fronts are gathered at the neck and the waistline, and the garment is designed to give the Marie Antoinette dip that is now in such popular favor; the dip may be conventional or decided, as liked, the pattern allowing for the extra length which is needed for the extreme dip, and the closing is made under the box-plait at the center.
The back, which is gored, is in three sections and with the sides is adjusted in the conventional close shirt-waist style. The close-fitting two-seam sleeves are without any fullness at the top and bell over the hands.
A narrow band over which is worn a stitched standing collar gives neck completion, and a lining fitted with single bust darts and under-arm and shoulder seams and a seam at the center of the back supports the blouse, but a bust-stay may replace it.
Made of Lansdowne, albatross, vailing, cashmere—plain or embroidered—and finished with rows of stitching, the shirt-waist will be found thoroughly pleasing. The mode is also a desirable one for developing plain or embroidered taffeta, satin Liberty, peau de soie, or any fashionable fabric.
We have pattern No. 4473 in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure.
To make the shirt-waist or blouse for a lady of medium size needs two yards and three-fourths of goods twenty-seven inches wide.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt No. 4534
No. 4534 Ladies’ Three-Piece Skirt, with Tucked Circular Flounce from beneath which the Skirt may be cut away and haying an Inverted Box-Plait at the Back. (To be made with the Conventional or Decided Dip at the Top and in Short-Sweep or Round Length.) (For Description see Page 616.)
This skirt is illustrated on page 612, and also at figures Mos. 189 T and 190 T in this magazine.
The distinguishing feature of the mode, which is shown developed in pastel-blue cloth, with, a row of insertion for decoration, is the tucked circular flounce.
It adds a fancy touch to the otherwise plain skirt, which comprises a front-gore and two wide, circular portions that are fitted smoothly over the hips by darts.
Another fashionable feature is the provision, for either the conventional or decided Marie Antoinette dip, and the skirt may be in round or short-sweep length.
The fullness at the back is laid in an inverted box-plait, and the flounce, which is tucked all round at the top, is arranged about the bottom of the design, which may extend beneath the frill or only to the top, as desired.
In the round length the skirt measures about three yards and three-fourths at the lower edge in the medium sizes and the flounce about seven, yards and one-fourth.
Crêpe de Chine, vailing, silk etc., will be appropriate for the skirt, which may be embellished with passementerie or ruchings.
We have pattern No. 4534 in seven sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-two inches waist, or from thirty-seven to fifty-two and one-half inches hip measure.
For a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip, the skirt extending beneath the flounce requires seven yards and one-fourth of goods fifty inches wide; the skirt cut away from beneath the frill, six yards and one-fourth in the same width.
Price of pattern, Is. or 25 cents.
Ladies' Basque Blouse and Skirt No. 197 T
Black and white is a combination that is always in favor and is shown in the blouse forming part of this attractive outfit. Black peau de soie and white silk mull were here selected, and a pretty arrangement of white lace appliqué produces a luxurious effect.
The mode displays wide tucks extending from shoulder to lower edge and is designed to produce the Marie Antionette dip that is now a marked feature of stylish patterns.
A high stock tops the full, drooping vest, and the close-fitting sleeves fall over the hand in scalloped outline. A shapely belt of the silk defines the lower edge of the blouse.
Tucks arranged in groups and allowed to fall free at different depths from the belt characterize the five-gored skirt, which may be in round or short-sweep length.
The dip at the top harmonizes with the blouse, and for the present development light-gray fancy vailing was chosen, the decoration being stitching and bands of applique like that on the blouse.
Combinations of colors and fabrics are favored for the blouse, and the skirt may contrast or harmonize with it.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4517 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in eight sizes for ladies from thirty-four to forty-eight inches, bust measure, and is shown again on page 605.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4388 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure.
Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice No. 4517
No. 4517 Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice, with Two Under-Arm Gores. (Desirable for Stout Ladies.) (For Description see Page 612.)
This blouse is pictured on page 605, and also in figure No. 197 T in this number of The Delineator.
The shaping of the blouse to produce the popular Juno bust effect, together with the arrangement of the tucks and trimming, render the mode an especially desirable one for ladies inclined to embonpoint.
Two under-arm gores at each side enter into the adjustment of the blouse, which is shown made of fine black cloth of firm weave combined with white chiffon and decorated with cream applique lace and black silk braid.
The back is perfectly smooth and shows two tucks arranged to form a V, while the fronts, which are wide apart to reveal a full vest, are also tucked, and the blouse shapes a dip at the lower edge.
The vest is gathered at the neck, and also at the lower edge like the fronts, and the closing is made at the center. The two-seam sleeves show slight fullness at the top and are finished fancifully at the wrist.
A standing collar that is deepest at the back and over, which stock in similar outline is worn, gives neck completion. The blouse is made over a fitted lining and is finished with a belt of ribbon.
Serge, Cheviot, homespun, poplin, cashmere and all dress materials of firm weave will reproduce the mode satisfactorily. Taffeta — either plain or embroidered — peau de soie and Liberty silk, may also be employed, and when combined with plain or fancy tucking and decorated with velvet baby ribbon a stylish blouse will result.
We have pattern No. 4517 in eight sizes for ladies from thirty-four to forty-eight inches, bust measure.
For a lady of medium size, the blouse requires one yard and three-eighths of goods forty-four inches wide, with five-eighths of a yard of material twenty-two or more inches wide for the vest.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
“Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 571 to 591 Inclusive,” in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York-Toronto: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LXI, No. 5, November 1900, p. 578, 597-598, 605-606, 612-613, 616.
Editor’s Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.