Dainty Designs in Negligees for Spring 1911
– Graceful, Chis and Appealing
Suggestions for Figured Dimity and Soft Crepon, Models 4523 and 4514. The Delineator, March 1911. GGA Image ID # 1647424d98
"Fashions change even in negligees and lingerie,” writes Helen Berkeley-Loyd from New York after making the rounds of the great white sales that mark the beginning of Spring in the city shops. "One finds the new narrow lines in the new petticoats, the new collars on the new night-dresses and lounging gowns, the new sleeves in wrappers, dressing-sacks, and matinées.
“It may seem to the uninitiated that it is not so very important that the deshabille which we wear strictly in the privacy of our own bedrooms should follow every little turn and twist of the current fashions. However, if you look into the matter a little more closely, you will find that the changes often have something more than a fashion value and will commend themselves to you from a practical point of view.
“This year, for example, even gingham petticoats and the simplest kimonos and negligees are made on narrow lines with as little width and fullness in them as possible, and, of course, the narrower and scantier they are the less material they take and the less they cost. When you are making tub skirts and cotton crêpe kimonos the question of economy is not a very vital matter, but you will appreciate the new styles to the full when it comes to silk and satin petticoats, and crêpe de Chine or embroidered mull bedroom gowns.
“Then, again, there is the kimono sleeve in the new negligees. You would not want it in everything, but you will find that wherever you do use it, you will like it. It is so much simpler than the ordinary sleeve, for you have not the bother of making it and sewing it in. The separate sleeve has its advantages which more than compensate you for the bother of making it, but the newer style is undoubtedly, the easier to handle. Some of the Spring, house gowns are made with the little French necks that are so deliciously cool-looking, while many of the kimonos shown in the best shops have the deep closing to the waistline.”
Since the wrapper has become a necessity of the feminine wardrobe, much thought and skill have been devoted to evolving dainty variations of what was originally a rather unlovely garment. The wrapper illustrated here (No. 4523) is an illuminating example of just how attractive a simple, practical house garment can be.
This design will appeal to every woman who likes to look neat and trim, even when in negligee attire. The front is gathered to a square yoke, which fits perfectly across the upper part of the chest, and hangs thence to the bottom in unbroken graceful lines, although it may be drawn in at the waistline if desired.
The back is fitted carefully to the figure, having an inverted plait below the waistline which ensures comfortable fullness. The neck, if made high, is finished with a roll collar; but a French square neck, which most women will find becoming, is also provided for.
The sleeves, too, may be in full length or shorter, the long sleeves being gathered into deep cuffs, while the shorter ones are finished prettily with flared cuffs. The wrapper is trimmed at the lower edge with a gathered flounce, which may, however, be omitted if not liked.
The garment may be made in either short sweep or round length, measuring in the latter style about two yards and seven-eighths at the bottom, with the inverted plait drawn out. The flounce measures in the round length about three yards and one-half at the bottom.
For a somewhat elegant house gown, one might choose crêpe de Chine or satin messaline, using some rather beautiful lace for trimming; but cashmere, challis, dimity, lawn or flowered muslin would also develop it very prettily. To make it for a medium-sized woman will require if the flounce is included, seven yards and three-fourths of twenty-seven-inch material.
One of the prettiest negligees of the season is portrayed in No. 4514, a useful kimono which may either be made in full length or cut short for a dressing-sack. The kimono is cut with the body and sleeves in one, the latter being gathered into bands or allowed to hang free. The tucks over each shoulder are cleverly arranged to afford fullness where it is most needed.
The side-closing is a novel and attractive feature, while the V-shape of the neck opening will prove very generally becoming. The kimono is, indeed, admirable from every point of view.
To make the long kimono for a medium-sized woman will require seven yards of material twenty seven inches wide, with one yard and one-quarter of contrasting material eighteen inches wide for bands; while for the short kimono three yards and one-half of material twenty-seven inches wide will be needed, with seven-eighths yard of contrasting material eighteen inches wide for bands. The silk, wool, and cotton crêpes, India silk, challis, and the printed lawns are all suitable for making.
"Dainty Designs in Negligees for Spring: Graceful, Chic, and Appealing," in The Delineator, New York: The Butterick Publiching Company, Vol. LXXVII, No. 3, March 1911, p. 4524.