Brilliant Colors and Striking Lace Designs 1922
Stein & Doblin Opening of Novel Patterns Arouses Widespread Interest
Laces, in their earlier seasonal developments, achieved two specific classifications as adopted for the Spring and Summer collections—a continued favor for the ciré productions in more or less aggressive patterns and the approval of a filet mesh developing large motifs of both geometric and floral-scroll persuasion.
More recently the adoption of old-time nets in their various developments has brought forward point d'esprit and Brussels net, and in this connection, there is a rising demand for wide laces of more exceptional patterns.
Flouncings of this later preference are also found in the treatment of dancing frocks which employ the wide ribbon sash.
News from Paris asserts a strong counter-movement in the continued favor to be bestowed upon lame laces. This is interesting because of the adoption in December by American houses of ciré laces in metallic colorings, one house of extended output having introduced gold, silver, and copper tones in the large all-over patterns as its basis for their lace frock development.
Apropos the lame indications, it is also announced from Paris that tinsel threads are introduced into the ciré laces and that new interest is manifested in an Escurial revival which introduces the patterns in the metallic cord.
In this connection, one notes that the larger New York shops are featuring displays of the high color floral discs upon Spanish blonde nets, in other words, fine honeycomb mesh.
These impressive offerings at Wanamaker's introduce fine lame threads in weaving their high lights with the one tone vivid color and particularly in the new reds and greens do this one tone, and lame combinations achieve brilliantly dominant effects.
Another showing presented a quarter inch machine filet with the artificial silk solid bodies of the motifs in relief as if padded. Embroidery stitches wove in and out of the mesh against the heavier motifs, presenting a highly capable version of the heavy type of lace at the top of the current vogue.
For the gowns created from such flamboyant designs, there are suitably conspicuous sash width ribbons—notably of wide ciré, as well as exceptionally stunning and well-designed lame brocades in the shades adopted by the lace manufacturers.
Velvet ribbons in the extreme widths also offer a type of girdle embellishment usually chosen in the deeper tones of the lace shades.
So it is safe to predict the support of an elaborate lace program well up into the Fall and Winter season.
The Stein-Doblin Collection
An American house which today sponsors a most comprehensive lace program both in its foreign and domestic interpretation is that of Stein Doblin Co.
It not alone promotes the ciré lace in its most approved application by the Haute Couture to afternoon and evening dress but also offers departures from there which compass the entire representative range of both European and American production.
The novelties presented unquestionably emphasize a trend towards Spanish characteristics which, however, depart almost entirely from the early traditions as favored by the past two seasons.
One notes the prominence of the great rose which has been subjected to, French influence, appearing from there in decorative and futuristic forms with and without leafage.
The effects are those of extreme elaboration, richly lustrous in flat or draped handling and ultra-modern in feeling. In this, the real break with recent seasons is most strongly marked, as these patterns leave behind all sense of revival of the favorites of other epochs.
Indeed, in a season marked by much of old-time charm in tendency, these laces present a real climax in sophisticated decoration. For example, there is found a futuristic rose embedded in a closely dotted border.
As the pattern ascends, it opens out into an extensive swirling of the dots in what is known as stardust patterns in printed silks or luxurious cottons.
Color plays a role of great importance in the effectiveness of this vigorous importation which is also presented attractively in Jonquil, nattier and sapphire blues, and even black and white.
A curiously exciting novelty, quite apart from these effects, is presented by bold bisque figurations upon salmon rose blonde, each figure showing a delicate rim of the rose tone.
Altogether unlike the preceding was the most recently opened lace—a revival of "hand run Spanish," of incomparable charm in wide flouncing of richly lustrous development.
Examination of the February display included these ciré productions but there was also dipped Margot, an especially useful platinum being shown; the continued favor of quarter-inch filet with realistic floral patterns in both plain ecru and two-tone pastels; novelties in both large and small patterns in which maize, bisque, old ivory, new ivory, several vivid blues, fuchsia, Hortensia, salmon-rose, platinum, canary, jade, rust, black, Tete de Negre, black, and white told the color story.
Notably, this was a series of hand-made filet mesh novelties which present elaborate bordering in two-tone chenille dots. Many unusual combinations are shown in both vivid and pastel colorings and a combination quite unhackneyed, ivory with aquamarine and sapphire blues or amber.
Vogue of the Lace Frock
As is very well known, Orange Mfg. Corp. present lace frocks four times a year. The showing this season, as with other leading houses, has been received with marked success and features maize, bisque, ivory, pastels, high color, and black novelties allied with chiffon, net, crepes and reversible satin.
These frocks achieve the suavity of line essential for the uncorseted figure, depending for detail upon the draped sleeve and girdles of deftly manipulated two-faced satin ribbons.
Real Laces Still Favored
Paris also continues to sponsor the actual lace shoulder flounce which defines the 1830 line. This mode has been highly approved by the important houses of design in New York all Winter with indications in current collections that it will expressively dominate specific period adaptations indefinitely.
As illustrated, a number of these youthful and charming berthas were noted in the smartly dressed audience which welcomed Doris Keane on the opening night of "The Czarina." Both rose point and the more exceptional Venetian patterns were worn, some with the black velvet gown, others with changeant taffeta frocks.
Another usage of lace which burst upon the assemblages which greeted both the Commodore Show of the N. G. R. A. and the Millinery Association's Fashion Fete at the Astor—was the introduction of narrow Val and similar net-top edgings used in parallel lines with effects which strongly indicate a collective interest in the narrower laces.
One gown was developed by overlapping flounces of large rounded chiffon petals which were entirely covered by overlapping rows of deep ivory Val.
Bruck-Weiss sponsored at the Astor Show a similar creation topped by a bonnet of rows of the lace.
These fine massed effects are, of course, diametrical opposites of the large and aggressive patterns of the current showings. So extreme have been these patterns that a recent importation aroused little comment but was accepted as quite in line with the day's fad.
The pattern was worked out in large scrolls and floral rosettes by way of dipped wool and linen fringe in rust color standing up from the ivory mesh a half inch in depth.
A handmade silk filet shown by Altman is in chestnut brown with a large many faceted jet bead worked into the design.
As the Lace Story Runs
- Lace presents essential features in nearly all current representative collections.
- High color ciré favored and frequently mounted upon the lame scabbard.
- Great approval bestowed upon platinum, maize, apricot and old ivory.
- White in rising favor.
- Revival of fine grade "hand run Spanish" flouncings.
- Continued interest in ecru filet.
- Wide Irish panels are going well.
- Reports from the best shops that the shoulder flounce and made pieces as well as flouncings and insertions of real laces, move steadily for general use as well as for bridal array.
- At the second Commodore Show given for charity, the entire Stein and Blaine showing was of lace.
“Brilliant Colors and Striking Designs Mark Lace Showings: Stein & Doblin Opening of Novel Patterns Arouses Widespread Interest,” in The American Cloak and Suit Review: Devoted to the Women’s and Children’s Ready-to-Wear Trades, New York: John M. O’Connor & Co., Vol. XXIII, No. 3, March 1922, p. 138-139.
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