Exotic Hats of the Spring Fashion Shows 1922
That the day had passed when the American was accused of being the one woman in the world who must have a red hat for Spring is proven not by recent importations, but by news from the Riviera that red hats were the sensation of the day after a considerable prestige last season.
It would appear that all the smart shops are exhibiting them, and all the smart shoppers are not only wearing them to buy more but are ordering them in new extravagances.
Simonne Bouvet presented the new clear reds as her contribution to the Millinery Show.
Two models of softly rolling brim lines simulated rather than denned the tricorne, one of which presented a high flange of decorative ostrich in self-tone, while a second model in this shade featured long pheasant feathers dropping to the waistline at center back.
Two additional versions of the modified tricorne appeared during the progress of the show in red, each softened by skillfully adjusted natural flue ostrich in self-tone.
The Biltmore Hats
The flattering and subtle evolutions of this stimulating color were also a feature of the collection shown at the Biltmore Show. The off-the-face sports brim and a straw simulating the French puff-brim felt of last season demonstrated with a high roll on the left, a dip to the right with a large cocarde, were youthful and flattering.
The contour which is presented each season with little variations rolls one brim line up and turns down its opposite. This year that right line extends noticeably out into what appears to be a new line. With no trimming discernibly, this hat in a dark Milan showed ashes of roses velvet facing, a new note, indeed.
Among the many fascinating shapes which either suggested or attained the scoop brim were those of felt, crepe and straw. The trimming frequently offered was a floral rosette of contrasting color, or floral and fruit clusters placed so that they "fell off" the edge of the brim.
For the exquisite beige crepe or chiffon afternoon frocks, beige shapes were suggesting the scoop but with a rolled front line.
Upon the charmingly striking Lucile example, ostrich fantasies emphasized the right to left movement by passing across the rounded crown and dropping to the right shoulder with the ends turned up in a rising line, the reverse of our long-time drooping effect.
This hat was audibly approved, as was the black toque that was worn with a much-admired black and beige costume.
Another tendency to scoop was in black with the cutaway back and high floral fantasy in emerald at center front.
Toque forms inclined to a small brim upon which kalsomine ostrich drooped, a particularly useful mordoré of this description also very much admired. The small hat had its innings, but the wide brim and wide off the face effects prevailed to a significant degree.
In the group of sports hats, a delightful new line was brought out which is much talked of as a feature of French resorts-wear.
The crown is higher and rounder than for a long time, in this type of hat, with a narrow upstanding brim pulled well down at the right side where a sizeable soft rosette much emphasizes it with streamers of thin ribbon
This mode was "liked a lot" and considered amply becoming to Miss Eagels, the glamorous blonde star.
Fruits of warm copper rose were applied to the front brim of a hat not small, not large, with the lines extending at the sides, the fruits dripping to the shoulders.
A similar effect was achieved by black piping showing the limp ostrich across the front, in the drooping line which, though not new, received much favorable comment.
The Various Fetes
Hickson, during the run of the Plaza showings, has intimated definite plans for a wide brim season. Floral wreaths upon either maline silk or hair foundations have shown considerable bronze brown.
Harry Collins submitted this shade in his contribution to the Astor Show by way of a beautiful maline creation. Layers of this net were arranged to present a "wind-blown" front line, gracefully handled.
A gold-brown ostrich novelty treatment was offered by this house by way of ostrich in wheel radiations from center crown to outer brim, of picture hat persuasion.
Ostrich largely contributed to the success of all these shows, a new movement presenting it as an "arrested" roll edge of a Milan crown, two broad, short feathers falling at the center back.
The short tip in vari-color effects, or vari-shades of one color, are also noted on both imported and domestic creations as is the short wing, which was, early in the season, supposed to have been eclipsed by the bird craze.
The tiny wing placed formally about the crown is shown in self-tone effects mounted upon crepe and Milan toques which are of formal lines and very becoming.
Yellow wings were seen upon yellow hemp with a narrow upturned white crepe roll brim.
The little love-birds, two perched on the edge of a wide scoop, have been very well received for resort wear and the white bird on the white hat has also scored. Lacquered effects are promised a wide distribution later.
The scoop was given new impetus by the brilliant Bruck-Weiss showing, one of which showed the 1830 cut-away at the back with its modern note emphasizing oddities by the use of white monkey fringe at the edge.
“The Millinery Mode: Exotic Chapeaux of the Spring Fashion Shows,” in The American Cloak and Suit Review: Devoted to the Women’s and Children’s Ready-to-Wear Trades, New York: John M. O’Connor & Co., Vol. XXIII, No. 3, March 1922, p. 130.
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