Ladies Fashionable Mourning Attire 161-163 T - 1900
Described on Page 447 | View Illustrations on Page 435
Ladies Fashionable Mourning Costume 161 T
Figure No. 161 T.—This consists of a Ladies’ Basque-blouse and skirt.
Notwithstanding its long popularity, the bolero is still receiving flattering attention and promises to appear in many attractive styles during the present season. The fanciful shaping of the one forming part of the blouse embraced in this costume is novel and becoming.
It is shaped to disclose the smooth back and full fronts of the blouse effectively and is extended in strap fashion in front. A standing collar finishes the neck, and the two-seam sleeves are of close adjustment and fancifully shaped at the wrist.
The skirt is an unusually attractive mode and is fully described at Figure No. 146 T. In the present instance the development is made effective by the combination of dull-black Henrietta and crepe lisse with rosettes and folds of crape for decoration.
Plissé crepon would develop an elegant deep mourning gown in combination with tucked chiffon. Henrietta, nun’s-veiling, crape cloth and any dull-finished woolen may be combined with taffeta or crape in developing the costume.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4209 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4388 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure, and is illustrated again on page 459.
Ladies’ Five-Gored Foundation Skirt No. 4388
No. 4388 Ladies’ Skirt: consisting of a Five-Gored Foundation Skirt and a Five-Gored Tucked Skirt. (To be made with the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and in Round or Short-Sweep Length at the Bottom.)
For Description see Page 463 | For Illustrations see Page 459
This skirt may be observed again by referring to Figures Nos. 146 T Ladies' Afternoon Costume and 161 T Ladies' Fashionable Mourning Costume in this magazine.
Clusters of tucks stitched to graduated depths characterize the gracefully designed skirt, shown here developed in pastel-blue crepe de Chine over a foundation of glace taffeta in a somewhat deeper shade. Black lace barbs afford rich and becoming decoration.
Both the skirt proper and the foundation are five-gored and may be made in round or short-sweep length. The tucks are stitched to graduated depths below which they fall unconfined to the lower edge, where the mode flares attractively.
At the top of the front, a dip that may be conventional or more decided gives additional grace to the skirt, which falls in an outline of about four yards in the medium sizes.
Lady’s-cloth in Nile-green with barbs of yellow lace for decoration will reproduce the mode well. Vailing, cashmere, light-weight cloth, taffeta and such fabrics are used in the development of skirts of this style with lace appliqué, braid, etc., for trimming.
We have pattern No. 4388 in seven sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-two inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-two and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip requires six yards of goods forty-four inches wide.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
Ladies Fashionable Mourning Costume 162 T
Figure No. 162 T.—This unites a Ladies’ blouse and skirt.
This costume will prove acceptable for dinner and dressy at home wear and is developed in black crepe de Chine associated with black net and chiffon ruchings.
The blouse is in low, rounding outline at the back, hut-shaped to form a V in front. It has slight plaited fulness in the lower part of the back, and the fronts blouse gracefully at the bottom.
A fanciful sectional bertha and a soft drapery section arranged about the neck and extended down the fronts contribute to the attractiveness of the mode, which has elbow sleeves that are short enough to reveal a drooping puff of the net.
A five-gored tunic is a conspicuous feature of the skirt, which has the same number of gores. The tunic has a fancy outline at the bottom and is short enough to reveal a flounce arranged about the foot of the skirt.
Both the skirt and tunic are dart-fitted over the hips, and an inverted box-plait at the center of the back disposes of the fullness in the latter. The artistic arrangement of the chiffon ruchings contributes much to the charming results.
Vailing, India silk, cashmere, albatross, crape cloth, etc., will develop beautiful costumes combined with contrasting material. Louisine, a dull-finished, silky fabric, could be stylishly associated with crape in the production of the mode.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4433 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty- four inches, bust measure, and is pictured again on page 445.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4451 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes, from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure, and is also portrayed on page 455 of this magazine.
Ladies’ Evening Blouse or Bodice No. 4433
For Description see Page 453 | For Illustrations see Page 445
By referring to figure No. 162 T in this number of The Delineator this blouse may be seen differently made up.
The color scheme carried out in the present development of the elegant evening blouse is exceptionally effective. Silk in a fashionable shade of rose pink was combined with cream chiffon, and Russian lace provides rich decoration.
The back has slight plaited fulness at the bottom drawn well to the center, and the fronts are gathered at the lower edge and pouch attractively. A fanciful bertha in two sections follows the upper edge of the blouse, which is in rounding outline at the back but shaped to form a V in front.
A soft drapery heightens the quaint simplicity of the mode arranged about the neck and extended down between the front edges of the fronts to the lower edge, where it pouches softly. At the bust, a large bow of the chiffon is tacked, and the blouse is made over a fitted lining.
The sleeve is in elbow length and is short enough to display a drooping puff of the chiffon arranged on the close-fitting lining to give the effect of an under-sleeve. It is in two-piece style and fancifully shaped at the lower edge. A wrinkled ribbon belt encircles the blouse and is softly knotted at the left side.
Velours épinglé, a luxurious silk with a satin luster, combines attractively with tucked or plain mousseline or chiffon in the development of the mode. Lace or ribbon velvet could be used for trimming. A pretty evening blouse was of jeweled net over taffeta with lace bands for trimming.
We have pattern No. 4433 in eight sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-four inches, bust measure.
To make the blouse for a lady of medium size requires two yards and three-eighths of fabric twenty inches wide with a yard and seven-eighths of cloth forty-five inches wide for the drapery, puffs, and bow.
Price of pattern, 10d, or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt No. 4451
No. 4451 Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt with Short Sweep, haying a Five-Gored Over-Skirt with an Inverted Box-Plait at the Back. (To be made with the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top.)
For Description see Page 462 | For Illustrations see Page 457
By referring to figure No. 162 T in this number of The Delineator this skirt may be seen differently made up.
India silk was selected for the development of the skirt in this instance with lace appliqué and plaiting of the silk for decoration. An over-skirt is the distinguishing feature of the design.
With its five-gored style, like the skirt is smoothly fitted over the hips by a dart at each side, and at the back is laid in an inverted box-plait. The overskirt has a fancy pointed outline at the bottom and is short enough to reveal a silk plaiting arranged about the foot of the skirt.
At the top, the skirt is smoothly fitted by a dart at each side, and the fulness at the back is collected in gathers. The mode is in sweep length and is characterized by the fashionable dip at the top in front, and at the lower edge, in the medium sizes, measures about three yards and a half.
A lovely skirt for dressy wear is developed using crimson crepe de Chine decorated with Persian bands, and the plaiting could be of the material.
Other appropriate materials for the development are Henrietta, cashmere, nun’s-vailing, albatross, Lansdowne, voile, taffeta, satin, etc., and spangled or jeweled bands, ribbon, lace insertion, or folds might be employed for decoration.
We have pattern No. 4451 in seven sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-two inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-two and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip measure requires six yards and three-fourths of material twenty inches wide with five yards and a fourth of silk twenty inches wide for a plaiting (nine inches deep).
Two yards and one-fourth of goods twenty inches wide, extra, will be needed to face the gores when the plaiting is not used.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
Ladies Fashionable Mourning Costume 163 T
Figure No. 163 T Embraces a Ladies’ skirt and Russian blouse.
Simple disposal of folds of crape materially enhances the attractiveness of this elegant costume. The blouse, developed in dull-finished black taffeta, is one of the current Russian modes.
Tucks prettily dispose of the fulness to yoke depth in the wide right-front, which with the left front, is gathered at the waistline and puffs out fashionably. The back only has slight fullness at the bottom drawn down close toward the center.
A standing collar and straight cuff with pointed, overlapping ends, complete the neck and bishop sleeve, respectively.
The skirt is of novel shaping and is fully described in Figure No. 143 T. In this instance black Henrietta was used in the development.
Cashmere, dull-finished woolens, crape cloth, albatross and nun’s-vailing are standard materials for developing mourning gowns. A stylish skirt could be made in this style of Imperial serge with machine-stitching for the finish, and the blouse could be of soft India silk.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4446 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is illustrated differently on page 450.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4406 and costs Is. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is pictured differently made up on page 456 of this number.
Ladies’ Russian Blouse No. 4446
For Description see Page 457 | For Illustrations see Page 450
No. 4446 Ladies’ Russian Blouse with Fitted Lining. (To be Tucked or Gathered at the Neck in Front.)
This blouse may be seen again by referring to figure No. 163 T in this magazine.
Russian modes always have many admirers, and the design here illustrated possesses the advantage of being comfortable as well as stylish and attractive. Blue French flannel was used for the present development with bands of Russian embroidery for decoration.
The blouse has slight gathered fullness in the lower part of the broad back and is perfectly smooth under the arms where it is seamed to the fronts.
The abundant fulness at the top of the right front, which is considerably wider than the left, is taken up in small tucks at each side of the center, and shirrings regulate the fulness at the waistline of both fronts.
The tucks extend to pointed yoke depth, but gathers may be used instead, if desired. The Russian style closing is on the left side, and a pointed strap s applied on the overlapping edge of the right front that extends to the bust.
The one-seam bishop sleeve is completed with a wristband having a pointed overlapping end, and the ends of the collar and belt are shaped to correspond. The blouse is arranged over a short lining closed at the center of the front and consisting of plain backs and dart-fitted fronts.
Brilliantine, serge, lady's-cloth, India silk, etc., will develop serviceable blouses with bands of all-over embroidery or any contrasting material braided or machine-stitched for decoration. A practical blouse is of Reseda green fine French flannel with white embroidered silk bands for decoration.
We have pattern No. 4446 in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure.
To make the blouse for a lady of medium size will require three yards of material twenty-seven inches wide.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies' Skirt No. 4406
No. 4406 Ladies' Skirt, Closed at the Left Side: consisting of a Front-Gore extending to the Belt and Two Circular portions Seamed to a Yoke at the Sides and Back. (To have the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and in Round or Short- Sweep Length at the Bottom.)
For Description see Page 462 | For Illustrations see Page 456
This skirt is shown differently made up in figures Nos. 143 T, 152 T and 163 T in this number of The Delineator.
The sheath-like adjustment over the hips and the dip at the top of the front are points of interest in the skirt here shown made of gray cloth, finished with rows of machine stitching, and closed above the left side front seam.
The skirt comprises a front-gore that extends to the belt and two circular sections that are joined to a smooth yoke and have their fullness at the back laid in an under-folded box-plait.
The yoke shapes a point at the lower edge of the back and each lower front corner, and the dip may be slight or very decided, as preferred.
The mode may be in round or short-sweep length and ripples attractively toward the foot, wherein the medium sizes the skirt measures about three yards and one-half.
Broadcloth. Venetian or covert cloth, serge, Cheviot, and all tailor fabrics, as well as vailing, cashmere, etamine, drap d’été, etc., are suitable for the development of the mode.
We have pattern No. 4406 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty- eight and a half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip requires three yards and one-half of goods fifty inches wide.
Price of pattern, Is. or 25 cents.
"Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 435, 445, 447, 450, 453, 455-457, 459, 462-463.
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.