Ladies Autumn Street Costume 164 T - 1900
For Description see Page 448 | For Illustration see Page 437
Figure No. 164T.—This illustrates Autumn Street Costume. — The patterns are Ladies’ Sailor Collar No. 4423, price 5d. or 10 cents; Shirt-Waist No. 4411, price 10d. or 20 cents; and Skirt No. 4410, price 1s. or 25 cents.
The severity of a plain blouse is greatly relieved by a dainty sailor-collar, and the popularity of this becoming accessory is, therefore, not surprising. The collar forming part of this simple and attractive costume is here made of all-over lace over blue silk and falls square at the back.
Its broad ends frame a smooth chemisette of white silk which is topped by a standing collar of the lace over silk to correspond with the sailor collar. Tie-ends of white silk ornamented with bands of the lace and knotted at the bust in sailor fashion are included with the chemisette in the sailor-collar pattern.
The shirt-waist is made of gray brilliantine with white silk for the cuffs. The mode has a broad back reaching to the waistline and showing slight gathered fulness at the bottom, and full fronts that puff out becomingly.
The sleeves are in one-seam style, slashed at the back of the wrist and completed with soft-rolled cuffs.
The skirt, which is fashionably termed the "morning-glory skirt,” is composed of eleven gores and shows the approved flare at the foot, where shallow backward turning plaits appear in the lower part of the side seams.
An inverted box-plait disposes of the fulness at the back, and the skirt is made with the fashionable dip at the top. Fine blue Cheviot was here employed for the skirt with fancy gimp for decorating the seams.
The collar, chemisette and tie may be developed in combinations of fancy tucking or silk and joined rows of insertion, or of batiste, grass linen, Persian lawn, etc. with lace for decoration.
Silk, fine flannel, cashmere and cotton fabrics are appropriate for the shirt-waist, while the skirt may be reproduced in a variety of silk and woolen materials and decorated according to individual taste.
The collar pattern, which is No. 4423 and costs 5d. or 10 cents, is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and may be seen again on page 452.
The shirt-waist pattern, which is No. 4411 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is portrayed differently on page 448.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4410 and costs Is. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is also pictured on page 458
Ladies' Sailor Collar No. 4423
For Description see Page 459 | For Illustrations see Page 452
No. 4423 Ladies' Sailor Collar with Chemisette and Tie
This collar is illustrated again at figure No. 164 T in this magazine.
The fashion for wearing separate collars necessitates the possession of several of these dainty accessories. The design illustrated consists of a plain sailor-collar with chemisette and tie; it is here developed in fine Persian lawn, tucked and plain, and decorated with applique lace hand.
The chemisette is perfectly smooth and closes at the back; it is revealed in V effect by the broad ends of the deep sailor-collar which is square at the back and curves prettily over the shoulders. The collar meets at the bust, and a standing collar completes the chemisette.
The plaited ends of ties fire tacked to the chemisette underneath the ends of the sailor collar and knotted loosely in nautical fashion at the bust. The corners of the sailor collar may be round instead of square if liked.
A dainty collar and chemisette was seen developed in shell-pink crepe de Chine on which were applied narrow bias folds of satin in harmonizing pastel tints, each fold being edged with Honiton lace braid and the chemisette was finely tucked.
Swiss, plain or embroidered, batiste, mull, organdy and all sheer, delicate materials, as well as silk and satin, will develop attractive collars, and applique lace, lace edging, self-frills or ribbon may be used for the garniture.
We have pattern No. 4423 in three sizes, small, medium and large.
To make the collar in the medium size requires a yard of lawn thirty-six inches wide with five-eighths of a yard of tucking twenty inches wide for the chemisette and standing collar.
Price of pattern, 5d. or 10 cents.
Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse No. 4411
For Description see Page 456 | For Illustrations see Page 448
No. 4411 Ladies’ Shirt-Waist or Blouse with Soft-Rolled Cuff. (To be made with or without the Lining or Bust-Stay.)
Other views of this blouse are shown at figures Nos. 157 T and 164 T in this magazine.
For the- present development of the pretty shirt-waist madras in a soft shade of yellow was chosen with stitching for completion.
The back is broad and seamless and has slight gathered fulness at the line of the waist, where a circular skirt extension is added, making the back of equal length with the fronts and doing away with unnecessary fulness under the skirt.
The fronts are gathered at the neck and for a short distance along the shoulders; they are also gathered at the waistline where they pouch softly, and the closing is made at the center through a box- plait.
The comfortably close one-piece sleeve is distinguished by a soft-rolled cuff that closes with links, and the opening at the back of the arm is finished with a continuous lap.
A standing collar is worn over the fitted neck-band, and a lining adjusted with single bust darts, under-arm gores, and a center-back seam is included in the pattern; it may, however, be replaced by a. bust-stay, but the use of either is a matter of taste. A leather belt encircles the waist.
Embroidered taffeta will reproduce the mode attractively, but plain fabrics both in woolen and washable materials are also used, stitching giving the most desired finish. A pretty shirt-waist was of pale-blue Lansdowne, and with it were wearing a belt and stock of white satin ribbon.
We have pattern No. 4411 in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure.
To make the shirt-waist for a lady of medium size will require two yards and one-eighth of material thirty-six inches wide.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies' Eleven-Gored Flare Skirt No. 4410
For Description see Page 463 | For Illustrations see Page 458
No. 4410 Ladies' Eleven-Gored Flare Skirt with an Inverted Box-Plait at the Back and Shallow Plaits in the Lower Part of the Side Seams. (To Have the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and the Round or Short-Sweep Length at the Bottom.) Known as the Morning-Glory Skirt.
This skirt is represented again at figure No. 164 T in this number of The Delineator.
The number of gores and the shallow plaits introduced at the side seams are conspicuous features of the skirt, which is frequently called the “morning-glory” skirt and is illustrated here developed in blue whipcord with a machine- stitching for the finish.
The skirt, which may be in round or short-sweep length, is in sheath style to the knee, below which it flares gracefully to the bottom; it is shaped perfectly smooth over the hips without the use of darts and has an inverted box-plait at the back.
Slight extra width allowed' at the side seams a short distance below the knee and arranged in under-folded backward-turning plaits produce the graceful flare which is an essential item in the newest modes.
The skirt may have the conventional or a decided dip at the top in front, according to individual preference, and falls in an outline of about three and three-fourths yards in the medium sizes.
A beautiful skirt could be made of gray satin with appliqué lace or passementerie for decoration.
We have pattern No. 4410 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-eight and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt of material with figure or nap, for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip, needs five yards and five-eighths forty-four inches wide without figure or nap four yards and three-eighths in the same width.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
"Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 437, 448, 452, 456, 458-459, 463.
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.