An Opera Cloak and a Coiffure - 1912
An Opera Cloak and a Coiffure. This superb open mantle is in pale-blue miroir velvet, with yoke of fold tissue pleated; fold cord edging and loops, and band of Irish lace. Pearls and osprey form the head-dress. The Illustrated London News (8 June 1912) p. 876. GGA Image ID # 102bfe25e5
In Paris, nearly half the gowns of the class referred to—the little frocks for smart wear, if not on full-dress occasions—are built in shot taffetas, trimmed on corsage and skirt with quaint, narrow, flat ruches of the material, and lace collars.
There need be no hesitation as to what is the smartest fabric of the season for the useful, yet dressy, little frocks that fill so important a place in the wardrobe; those that are not too showy for morning wear and yet constitute an adequate afternoon toilette.
Shot chiffon taffetas is the fabric for choice. There are delightful color combinations in this material, ranging from sunset-like harmonies of pale gold-and-blue, or soft green shot with delicate pink, up to deep, strong shadings of purple and dark gold, royal blue and emerald, coral pink and silver-grey, and many another.
The new chiffon taffeta is not the stiff glacé fabric of earlier days; it is soft and pliable, yet it has the firm quality that has now the charm of novelty.
Little coats with short basques opening down the front to show a lace or net under- bodice, and edged all round with a flat ruche, are very- fashionable.
Two materials, that is to say, plain and shot together, are seen; sometimes a plain band of one of the colors of the shot is put on the skirt, laid flat; or is seen edging a tunic round, with the shot ruche again edging this band of plain taffetas—or it may be that there is a shot taffetas tunic over a plain colored skirt.
But the flat double ruche, with its quaint reminiscence of Mid-Victorian fashion, is always the trimming on shot taffetas frocks. As to the much-talked-about paniers, they are not often seen, except in the modified form of a few flat pleats on the hip, the folds thus produced set at the lower end, a little puffed, into a band edging the tunic.
"Ladies' Page: An Opera Cloak and Coiffure," in The Illustrated London News, New York: The International News Company, Vol. 50, No. 1309, 8 June 1912, p. 876.