Vintages Fashions - Delineator Magazine - November 1900
The contour of the fashionable woman has noticeably changed of late, this effect being attained by what is known as the "Marie Antoinette" dip and the "Juno" or "Hebe" bust. The military beariug given the figure by these new features is most attractive and is secured without discomfort.
The back appears straighter, the bust lower and the abdomen less prominent; and the waistline descends a little from the back to the front. Another new feature that has received the approval of Fashion is the extra long shoulder on all garments, to enhance the military effect.
Fancy sleeves continue to characterize nearly all of the newest and most approved waists and basques. An attractive jacket-basque that is admirably adapted for the association of contrasting materials has a bolero shaped low at the neck ; the fronts open over a full vest, while the sleeves may be either plain or in fancy Court style. The dip at the bottom in front accentuates the waist-line.
A basque-waist of unusual good style has fancifully outlined over-fronts and a whole smooth back that is shaped low at the top. The sleeves may he plain or in fancy "1850" style.
Guimpes are indispensable to every well-appointed wardrobe. A new mode is closed at the left side and may be made with close-fitting, one-seam sleeves that are especially desirable for lace, or with blouse sleeves.
In a jaunty new short double-breasted coat that may he worn open or closed the distinguishing features are the flared gored collar and broad revers. The sleeves may be in fancy outline at the wrist or plain. The mode shows the long shoulder and dip effects and is especially adaptable to developing fur, velvet, velours, etc.
A very decorative effect is achieved by the dainty little jaquette that characterizes a basque-waist or bodice. The mode suggests artistic combinations of fabrics.
A shawl collar that may be made square-cornered or round is the distinctive feature in a smart jacket having the long shoulder effect that is such a pronounced characteristic of military modes. The jacket has a fly closing, and the sleeves are flared around the wrists.
A new, attractive circular skirt that has an inverted box-plait at the back is distinguished by a scolloped, circular flounce set on, from beneath which the skirt may be cut away. The Marie Antoiuette dip at the top may be decided or conventional, and the mode may be in round or short-sweep length.
Especially desirable for developing furs or heavy cloth is a double-breasted sack coat with semi-fitted back; it may be made in three-quarter or shorter length. A high flare collar and revers are interesting features of the mode.
A coat that may be made in either of two lengths is closely fitted and closed in single-breasted style to the neck, which is completed with a high flaring collar.
Bell-shaped sleeves are an attractive featuro in a new dressing-sack that has loose fronts and fitted back. A fancifully outlined sailor-collar may be added if desired.
The fashionable dip at the top is exemplified in a four-gored petticoat-skirt with straight hack-breadth. The dip may be conventional or decided.
The lining may be omitted in a dressing-sack that has the fulness at the back secured at the waist in shin rings; the sides are fitted, and the front is full at the neck. A large sailor-collar an d close-fitting sleeves completed with fancifully shaped flaring cuffs are notable features.
Novelties in shirt-waists are always sought, and a new example shows a gored back and has the shoulder lengthened to fit a sleeve plain at the top. The bust-stay and also the lining may be used or not, as liked.
A smart jacket is gored to the shoulders both at fhe back and front, the latter being closed in double-breasted style. The deep rolling collar meets the lapels, and the sleeves are fancifully shaped around the wrist.
EXtreme good style characterizes a basque-waist that has a whole smooth back and bloused fronts reversed at the top and opening over a full vest. The sleeves may be plain or in Garibaldi style. The mode suggests associations of fabrics.
Comfortable bell sleeves add to the effectiveness of a new lounging-robe or wrapper that has the fulness at the top of the back and fronts secured in fine tucks. The neck is completed with a narrow rolling collar that is made double and is continued in trimming-band fashion down the fronts which are turned back in revers at the top.
Picturesque and appropriate for fancy-dress functions, also for negligé wear, is a Greek costume known as the " Hebe " gown worn by Eunice in Quo Vadis.