Vintage Fashions - Autumn Street Toilette - 1900
FIGURE No. 164T.—This includes a Ladies' sailor collar, shirtwaist and skirt. The collar pattern, which is No. 4423 and costs 5d. or 10 cents, is in three sizes, small, medium and large, and may be again seen on page 452.
The shirt-waist pattern, which is No.4411 and costs 10(1. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is differently portrayed on page 448. The skirt pattern, which is No. 4410 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is also pictured on page 458.
The severity of a plain waist is greatly relieved by a dainty sailor-collar, and the popularity of this becoming accessory is, therefore, not surprising. The collar forming part of this simple and attractive toilette is here made of all-over lace over blue silk and falls square at the back. Its broad ends frame a smooth chemisette of white silk which is topped by a standing collar of the lace over silk to correspond with the sailor collar. Tie-ends of white silk ornamented with bands of the lace and knotted at the bust in sailor fashion are included with the chemisette in the sailor-collar pattern.
The shirt-waist is made of gray brilliantine with white silk for the cuffs. The mode has a broad back reaching to the waist-line and showing slight gathered fulness at the bottom, and full fronts that puff out becomingly. The sleeves are in one-seam style, slashed at the back of the wrist and completed with soft-rolled cuffs.
The skirt, which is fashionably termed the " morning-glory skirt," is composed of eleven gores and shows the approved flare at the foot, where shallow backward-turning plaits appear in the lower part of the side seams. An inverted box-plait disposes of the fulness at the back, and the skirt is made with the fashionable dip at the top. Fine blue cheviot was here employed for the skirt, with fancy gimp for decorating the seams.
The collar, chemisette and tie may be developed in combinations of fancy tucking or silk and joined rows of insertion, or of batiste, grass linen, Persian lawn, etc., with lace for decoration. Silk, fine flannel, cashmere and cotton fabrics are appropriate for the shirtwaist, while the skirt may be reproduced in a variety of silk and woolen materials and decorated according to individual taste.