Vintage Fashions - Ladies' Visiting and Travelling Toilettes - 1900
FIGURE No. 150 T.—LADIES' VISITING TOILETTE.—This unites a Ladies' basque-waist and skirt. The waist pattern, which is No. 4445 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and may be seen differently developed on page 448. The skirt pattern, which is No. 4397 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is again shown on page 455.
The toilette here pictured is appropriate for semi-formal dressy occasions. The waist is a new design sans revers, and in the present instance is shown developed in figured silk in combination with dark panne velvet and plain tucked silk, and a unique disposal of lace decorates the mode stylishly. The fronts and back of the waist are shaped to display the yoke and are perfectly smooth at the top: Slight plaited fulness appears at the bottom of the back, and the fronts, which overlap broadly and puff out stylishly, are gathered at the lower edge. A broad effect is induced at the shoulders by a smooth bertha that flares at the front and back.
The close-fitting sleeves are completed with circular cuffs that fall over the hand, and a standing collar finishes the neck. Satin Duchesse was used in developing the seven-gored skirt, which is fully described at Figure No. 147 T.
A handsome toilette could be made in this style of peau de soie combined with allover lace and velvet. Broadcloth, taffeta, mohair, cheviot, tweed, vailing, cashmere, etc., will develop the skirt, stylishly, while plain and fancy silk and satin, vailing and other light-weight woolen materials in combination with chiffon, mousseline, all-over lace or fancy tucking will attractively reproduce the waist.
FIGURE No. 151 T.—LADIES' TRAVELLING TOILETTE
This comprises a Ladies' shirt-waist and skirt. The shirt-waist pattern, which is No. 4427 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is also portrayed on page 449. The skirt pattern, which is No. 4448 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is pictured differently developed on page 462.
The general usefulness of the shirt-waist has been adequately proved, and the comfortable garment seems to have attained a permanent position in the modern woman's wardrobe. Simplicity is a characteristic of the shirt-waist forming part of the toilette here illustrated.
Small, lengthwise tucks are taken up in groups at the centre of the back, and the fronts, which puff out stylishly, are distinguished by tucks taken up at the top to graduated yoke depth. The bishop sleeves are of the newest shaping; they are slashed at the wrists and completed with straight cuffs, and a white linen collar and string tie are worn. Gray French flannel was used in the development of the shirt-waist, and machine-stitching supplies the finish.
The skirt, as here shown, is in instep length, but may be shorter, if liked, and for its development a pretty Scotch plaid, cut on the bias, was chosen. It is in two-piece style shaped with a seam at the centre both front and back, and is fitted perfectly close at the top by darts. An inverted box-plait disposes of the fulness at the back, and the skirt shows the popular dip at the top. The mode is equally desirable for pattern fabrics and plain goods and is practical for developing serviceable skirts for shopping, touring, cycling, golfing, rinking, stormy-weather wear, etc.
A serviceable skirt could be made of double-faced covert cloth, while for the shirt-waist taffeta, poplin, fine serge, cashmere or brilliantine may be appropriately selected.