Black Pudding - Defined with Recipes
Making Black Pudding circa 1907. Douglas's Encyclopedia, 1907. GGA Image ID # 19cd5c23f8
Black Pudding—Often seen on the bill of fare as "Boudin Noir," they are made of sheeps, or pigs' blood and chopped suet, seasoned, filled into intestines, smoked, boiled, and when cold, served in thin slices as an appetiser.
Black Puddings à l’Anglaise
The chief difference in making black puddings according to the English method lies in the omission of the nutmeg, bay leaf, and thyme, and in the addition of boiled oats or rice; in all other respects the same directions must be followed.
When about to serve the black puddings, they should be scored all over to prevent them from bursting while being broiled, and when done, dished up with strips of dry toast placed between each piece of pudding: the centre of the dish should be filled with mashed potatoes to keep them quite hot.
Black Puddings à la Française
To one pint of pig’s blood add rather more than half a pint of double cream, three-quarters of a pound of the fat from the inside of a pig, cut into rather small pieces, and two large onions chopped and fried in a little butter without becoming coloured; season with a little chopped bay leaf and thyme, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; mix well together, and stuff the prepared linings, taking care to allow room for tying them into lengths of about six inches.
Boil the puddings, and let them remain in the water until firm to the touch; they must not, however, be kept in the water longer than will suffice to set the stuffing. When taken out of the water, the puddings should be hung up in the larder to cool.
Black Pudding Dye.—A prepared artificial dye for blackening the outside of skins of black puddings when they are being cooked, and is used in place of logwood dyes at one time so common for this purpose. Black pudding dye has a great deal to recommend it in the way of simplicity, as the powder only requires to be added to the water in boiling pan in the proportion of half an ounce to every 20 gallons of water.
Black Puddings (English) —No. 1
- 10 lbs. Midlothian groats (to be first boiled before mixing),
- 10 lbs. leaf lard or back fat,
- 1 1/2 oz. black pudding (herb) spice,
- 1 1/2 oz. black pepper,
- 1 gallon blood (bullocks’ or pigs).
A handful of chopped onions is sometimes added.
Method of preparation.—Boil the groats for about forty minutes previous to using. Cut the leaf lard into pieces i inch square with fat-cutter. When the blood is being drawn from the bullock or pig, it should be stirred gently, and a wine-glassful of warm water added to every gallon along with 2 oz. of salt and 2 oz. food preservative.
Mix all the ingredients well together, placing them in a black pudding filler, and fill into narrow bullock runners. Tie pieces about 18 inches long into lengths and bend them into circles, joining both ends.
Boil at a very gentle temperature (180 Fahr.) for about twenty minutes, and then withdraw from the pot or boiler and allow to cool.
During the process of boiling add to the water either 1 oz. to every 10 gallons of black pudding dye or 1/2 lb. of logwood chips, in order to dye them perfectly black.
The old-fashioned way to tie black puddings is by means of dried rushes or bass strings, allowing the ends of the rushes to project about 3 inches.
Black Puddings (English)—No. 2
Prepare 1 gallon (10 lbs.) of finest Scotch groats by boiling for about forty minutes in a loose sack, leaving room for them to swell out; also prepare some finest leaf lard by cutting it into square pieces about \ inch or ¡J inch square with fat cutting machine.
Make up from following :—
- 10 lbs. Scotch groats,
- 10 lbs. leaf lard (cut in squares),
- 3 gallons blood (fresh),
- 15 oz. seasoning,
- 1 teaspoonful rubbed pennyroyal,
- Add three or four chopped onions, if that flavor is desired.
Seasoning (make from following recipe) :—6 lbs. salt, 5 lbs. Douglas’s black pudding spice (herb), 5 lbs. black pepper, 1 lb. pimento, 1 lb. coriander seed. Add to this some caraway seed, if that flavor is desired. (The proportion of the seasoning used is 5 oz. to the gallon of mixture.)
Method of preparation.—Mix the blood and other ingredients, then place them in vertical filling machine, fill the mixture into black pudding skins (“ bullock runners ”), seeing that the pieces of fat are equally distributed throughout. Tie into pieces, forming a circle 6 inches in diameter, and tie in circles. Boil gently at about i8o° Fahr, for about half-an-hour. Add to the water in the proportion of i oz. to every 20 gallons black pudding dye powder. Or put into water, previous to boiling, 1 lb. of logwood (finely ground) to every 15 gallons, and add a little powdered alum. When cooked, take out of the copper and tie with rushes with long ends at the joints. Before exposing for sale, rub them with a cloth on which has been dropped some salad oil.
The filling machine most suitable for black pudding making is of the vertical type. The funnel to which the sausage casings are attached is near the top, and the approach to the funnel inside the filler is grooved in such a way as to prevent resistance or choking. The lid or cover is fixed on the top by a hinge, and is raised or lowered with great ease and rapidity.
The thumb screw shown in drawing is simply unscrewed, and then the lid is free to be raised. The thumb screw also is attached by a pin to the side of the filler, so that there is no possibility of laying it aside.
The plunger or piston acts vertically, and is raised slowly as required by turning the handle. When it is desired to lower it, the handle is pushed forward after raising a catch upon its shaft, and thus the machine is instantly thrown out of gear.
To prevent the piston falling too rapidly, however, as it would do if not controlled, there is a regulating wheel which is attached to the piston rod and controls its fall if caught by the hand.
The raising and lowering is carried out with great rapidity. When the mixture is put into the black pudding filler, the lid is closed with the thumb screw, and bullock runners or other convenient casings are attached to the funnel and the work of filling commenced.
The end of the runner or casing should first of all be tied so as to prevent any loss, and the whole length of runner or casing on the funnel is then rapidly filled and tied also at the latter end.
The lengths are then tied into lengths of 18 inches (or any other convenient length) in two places so that they can be cut off without any loss, and these lengths are in turn tied in circles, the two cut ends being tied together.
Black Puddings (Royal).
The humble black- pudding is not supposed to circulate extensively among the “ upper ten,” yet, prepared in a refined way it is not unknown on the table of Royalty. This is how Francatelli prepares black puddings, and he was successively chef to the Earl of Chesterfield, Ivord Kinnaird, Sir W. Massey Stanley, Bart., and Her late Majesty the Queen. We commend his recipes to those of our sausage making friends who wish to go in for something recherchée.
Black Puddings (French).—To one pint of pig’s blood add rather more than half a pint of boiled double cream, three-quarters of a lb. of the fat from the inside of a pig cut into rather small pieces, and four large onions chopped and fried in a little butter without becoming coloured ; season with a little chopped bay leaf and thyme, nutmeg, pepper, and salt.
Mix well together, and stuff the skins prepared perfectly clean for the purpose of the above, taking care to allow room for tying them into lengths of about six inches.
Some water must be kept nearly at the boiling point and then removed from the fire down to the side and the puddings immersed, and allowed to remain in it until they become somewhat firm to the touch.
They must not, however, be kept in the water longer than will suffice to set the preparation. The puddings, when taken out of the water, should be hung up in the larder to cool.
Black Puddings (English).—The chief difference from the foregoing in making black puddings, according to the English method, lies in the omission of the nutmeg, bay leaf, and thyme, and in the addition of boiled Emden grits, or rice. In all other respects the same directions must be followed.
When about to dress the black puddings, they should be scored all over to prevent them from bursting while being broiled, and when done are to be dished up with stripes of dry toast placed between each piece of pudding. The centre of the dish should lx* filled with mashed potatoes to keep them quite hot.
As black puddings are liable to become slimy or moldy if kept for a few days, it is desirable that measures should be taken to prevent these objectionable features.
This can be done by dipping the puddings in a weak solution of dry antiseptic. This solution should contain half a pound of dry antiseptic to one gallon of water and should be boiled when prepared.
Use the solution warm, and heat it every time it is used to about 120° F. When the puddings are cold and dry, they should be wiped and rubbed with a cloth which has been partially soaked in salad oil.
Black Pudding.—One cup sour milk or cream, half cup molasses, yolks two eggs, half cup melted butter, one teaspoonful soda, salt, enough flour to make medium stiff. Beat butter and molasses very light, stirring in other ingredients and steam three hours. Add raisins and nuts if desired.
MRS. J. W. PORTER, Jr. (1913)