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Vintage Fashions - Shopping for Women's Fine Fashions - 1906

In the Path of the Purchaser

By Mrs. Eliza Aira

There is subtle and convincing charm about the clothes at Jay's, of Regent Street. To this sartorial creed I will undertake to convert any woman, provided that she follow the course I lay down for her fashionable guidance, and earnestly investigate certain new gowns shown me this morning.

Frock of Sky-Blue Silk Voile

First, I would have her note a frock of sky-blue silk voile, the plain, clinging skirt, trimmed with a broad ruching of taffetas above a hem of equal depth. A short-waisted effect is achieved by means of a high, swathed taffetas belt, at the top of which appears a fold of silver tissue, and au devant, a butterfly bow held with a small paste buckle. The neckband and yoke consist of gathered white net and Brussels appliqué, and a shoulder cape is suggested by five diminutive frills of snowy Valenciennes, punctuated in front by as many china buttons.

The picture is completed by a large straw hat, in the same brilliant shade of blue, lined with white lace and raised at the left side and behind by a fluffy cache peigne of blue tulle. Garlanding the crown are small pink roses and green foliage surmounted by a tall, fringed ruching of blue silk, two black ostrich feathers nodding au cote gauche. In striking contrast is a soi disant tailor-made in navy serge.

The skirt of this reveals a variation of the familiar Greek key pattern in different black braids about the hem, and the little coat is barred horizontally with similar braid, and opens to show a pointed belt of stone gray satin embroidered in damask roses, and a waistcoat of old rose taffetas traced with an elaborate design in green, lemon, and wine-coloured cord.

Accompanying this is a narrow little toque contrived from check straw in a mixture of rose, green, yellow, blue and black, trimmed at the left with a big bird in glossy tones of blue, black, and myrtle. Equally striking in its way is a Princess dinner gown, fashioned from a network of tiny jet beads over heliotrope tissue shot with silver.

The deep flounce allows the tissue foundation to be seen, as it consists of a pattern boldly embroidered in enormous jet beads of varying sizes and shapes, and the bolero is similarly treated and introduces a chemisette and puffed sleeves of finest cream point de Alençon, tasselled ends of jet swinging from the centre of the bust and between the shoulders.

Frock of Striped Mauve and White Voile

Sweet simplicity is represented by a frock of striped mauve and white voile, the corsage arranged in overlapping folds drawn round a yoke of tucked white mousseline inserted with narrow lines of beading, the fulness held in place, below the bust, by a coquettish little bow and a four-cornered buckle in lettuce-green enamel, while the merest suggestion of a waistcoat is carried out in Parma violet linen, embroidered in white and flanked by tiny revers of broad white braid, edged with half-an-inch of knife-pleated violet glace, the deep, pointed belt, consisting of draped voile, divided in half by a band of white braid.

Designed to wear with this is a mauve straw hat, the crown completely concealed by a high ruching of mauve chine, shot with green, and a wreath of vivid pink geraniums, the cache peigne being of pink tulle.

Glories of a Toilette

The glories of a toilette evolved from rhododendron pink crepe, velvet and cream lace, are crowned by a jaunty little hat in rhododendron purple, and an afternoon gown is inspired by black silk voile, relieved with a yoke of white tulle and lace -appliqué and rendered perfect by a large hat of black crinoline, the saucer-shaped brim lifted to an acute angle at the left side by rosettes of brown tulle, and the crown trimmed with puffings of black taffetas and a pair of black ostrich feathers.

Lingerie at Jay's

The lingerie at Jay's is of the most beautiful description from stockings upwards, and the vexed problem of what to wear at the throat is admirably solved by a variety of collars and cravats, while in belts, parasols, negligees, dressing gowns, blouses, jupons, veils and other etceteras, the selection is bewildering.

To know England really well, the England of winding white roads, honeysuckle and rose-scented hedges, and a very labyrinth of lanes, the England of grassy hills and wooded dales, of river and streamlet, of Roman encampment and Norman castle, of humble village churches and stately Gothic cathedrals, the England of Shakespeare, Wordsworth, and Tennyson, in a word the England of long ago, as well as the England of to-day, requires a motor, and—because the feminine mind must ever revert to the one subject—a motor means suitable clothing.

Suitable Clothing for Motoring

At this sage reflection, visions suggest themselves of certain coats I saw at the International Fur Stores, 163 & 165, Regent Street. Admirably suited to all purposes of travel is one of light fawn cloth lined with grey squirrel. Not quite full length, it fits loosely and is double breasted, the wide, turn-down collar and cuffs consisting of stone marten.

To the ground is an all-enveloping wrap contrived from beaver-coloured cloth, lined with neutria, and conspicuous for a rolled collar and cuffs of beaver, a single row of monster buttons, in smoked pearl and oxidised silver, doing decorative duty as far as the waist. Ideal for either yacht or motor is a long coat in dark brown and green plaid blanket cloth, a material specially manufactured, by the way.

Lined with neutria, the back is cut on the cross, and the double-breasted front bears two rows of cloth buttons to match, beaver providing the collar and cuffs. Loose and three-quarter length is a coat of soft black-faced cloth that boasts a lining of Russian sable, buttons of dull silver, and a crossover collar and gauntlet cuffs of Persian lamb. A distinct novelty is a loose, full-length motor coat of silver rabbit, and another built on similar lines is of Russian pony skin, beautifully shaded, and bearing a storm collar and cuffs of unplucked beaver.

Passing from the utilitarian to the elaborately ornamental, I cannot resist the temptation which urges me to describe a three-quarter theatre or casino coat of corn-coloured cloth lined with white satin and chiffon. About the neck and down the fronts runs a band of chinchilla, two stole-like ends in plaited silver braid, heavily weighed with monster tassels, falling from the neck, while on the shoulders is a cape effect in ecru lace, adorned with raised roses in yellow silk with crystal centres and green chenille foliage.

The Popular Stoles

Stoles continue to enjoy an uninterrupted spell of popularity, which accounts for the vast selection of these entirely desirable wraps to be found at the International Fur Stores, where they are to be seen and coveted in every shape and skin known to fashion Possibly, for summer wear, the sable tie most commends itself, while other favoured furs are chinchilla, marten, mink, and all varieties of fox, white pre-eminently.

"Du nouveau, du nouveau et encore du nouveau!" is the cry of the fashionable world of to-day. That he invariably manages to meet the demand with a supply of smart and exclusive novelties, speaks eloquently of Vickery's ingenuity and resourcefulness, for push open any of the swing doors at 167, 169 & 171, Regent Street when one may, one is sure to find much that is new and more that is desirable.

Accessories for Women

A useful innovation is a cheque book-case, in any shade or kind of leather, fitted with a lock and supplied with blotting paper, while an excellent letter-case contains separate partitions for stamps, and a flat pocket for paper money. These last are in plain leather, but are also fitted with gold, silver and gilt mounts for such as prefer the extra elaboration.

Calculated to take up a minimum of space are leather cigar and cigarette cases, which double the duty with that of matchbox as well. While on the subject of cases, it is advisable to mention a specialty of Vickery's which has won universal commendation. This is a big, envelope-shaped case, in very soft leather, planned to hold a silk quilt and down pillow, space being left for the further convenience of the traveller, for the accommodation of periodicals and a light wrap.

When moving about from place to place, it is essential to have some receptacle for the safekeeping of one's papers. To this end is designed Vickery's patent locked letter tray. In reality a leather box, this contains a blotter, a drawer fitted with everything necessary to correspondence, from the hasty penning of a note of invitation, to a lengthy government despatch, and an ample recess for the storing away of important letters.

La voyageuse should certainly make her own a delightful little travelling bag, a veritable dressing case in miniature. In violet, green, brown, or blue crushed morocco, this article etc luxe measures seven inches in length, and holds hair and clothes brushes, combs, soap box, scent spray, salts bottle, mirror, button hook, scissors, purse, in a word all the addenda a woman thinks she requires if she is to appear spick, span, and adorably fresh after a long day's journey.

Another useful novelty at Vickery's is a crystal and silver inkstand, which has a two-faced clock let into the lid, the result being that whether it be open or shut, the dilatory scribe is reminded of the flight of time.

All my life I had sighed for it. Once or twice a vision of it was vouchsafed to me in a dream, only to be dispelled the instant I awoke. Then, just as I was about to class it among the unattainables and resign myself to the inevitable, I found it. Being naturally communicative. I claim no special credit for sharing my discovery with the rest of my Sta. who all, no doubt, have participated in my aspiration to possess a waterproof. in which it is possible to defy the elements. and yet appear well dressed.

Women's Fashion at Peter Robinson

I owe the realisation of my lifelong desire to PETER ROBINSON, of Oxford Street. There, a recent visit introduced me to half-a-dozen varieties of smart waterproof wraps. Possibly, the one which appealed to me most is a loose coat in dark green and blue plaid silk, with cape sleeves and a neat velvet collar. Its price is £5 18s. 6d., and it is calculated to serve the double purpose of rain and dust coat.

Another, after the same style, consists of striped grey and white silk, the collar being of black velvet, and a third, possessed of ordinary sleeves, is fashioned from bright, dark blue, the collar and cuffs piped with light green and white, and the front adorned with dull silver buttons. Other waterproofs start from 21s., and are really well worth investigating, as the English climate renders a wrap of the kind indispensable.

Never surely has the feather stole been more in demand. At Peter Robinson's one of the latest varieties assumes the picturesque form of a pierrot ruffle in marabout, finished with pendant loops of satin. In a particularly becoming shade of brown, its price is 23s. 9d., whereas in black it is 27s. 9d., and in white 49s. 6d. Flat stoles of clipped coques' plumage, white on one side and coloured on the other, are 14s. 9d., and curled ostrich boas, three yards long, are obtainable in every fashionable shade for five guineas.

Passing to what is known as the mantle department, I made the acquaintance of an attractive dust coat, contrived from ecru tussore silk and guipure, a feature of it being small buttons encircled by catherine wheels in knife pleated silk. A useful full-length coat, in white or any coloured serge, displays a military strap behind, a white collar and cuffs traced with white silk cord, and only costs £2 18s. 6d.. while an unusually smart carriage wrap is fashioned from deep cream as with a broad hood effect in guipure a collar of black moiré antique edged with gold cord which -crossing over the bust. fastens under a stiff black rosette, the loose sleeves being softened with falls of white lace.

Fashions at John Wilsons' Successors

No true daughter of Eve can resist the fascination of real lace , so that the woman who does not wish to be tempted beyond her strength should carefully abstain from looking in at John Wilsons' Successors, Regent Street. At that address cobwebby lace of every description is waiting to emmesh her, and she has but to set eyes upon a certain scarf of ivory Carrickmacross, remarkable for a basket design filled to overflowing with trails of roses and shamrock, to succumb entirely.

Equally alluring is a second, three yards long and one yard wide, of Malines lace. This is a truly wonderful specimen of needlecraft and its price is 45s., while other desirable scarves cost 395., and are handmade reproductions of quaint eighteenth and early nineteenth century models.

It is in Irish lace, however, that John Wilsons' Successors excel. Just now they are making a special feature of entire robes of Irish crochet, from thirty-five guineas. The styles represented are chiefly Princess and Empire, but skirt and bodice pieces can also be obtained, and the last require no trimming beyond a satin or silk waistbelt and possibly a twist of ribbon on the sleeves.

A really good investment is a little crochet bolero or jacket for three guineas. One of these make a smart finish worn over a chiffon blouse, accompanied by a corselet skirt in white cloth, and relieved with the merest touch of bright colour. Loose afternoon and evening coats are also present in Irish crochet, one of the most effective designs showing raised roses intermingled with shamrocks. Exquisitely fine is a set of crochet cuffs to the elbow, and a yoke to match, for seven guineas, while a coarser set is 50S.

Hand-embroidered lawn collars, circular in shape, and coming nearly to the edge of the shoulder are bordered with crochet, and cost 15s. 6d. A very beautiful bertha consists of Irish needle point and picturesque fichus, copied from old world designs, are 45s. each, in inexpensive hand-made Irish laces.

John Wilsons' Successors are likewise famed for their assortment of new and dainty handkerchiefs. Some that are particularly in demand just now, when the absence of serviceable pockets is making itself acutely felt, are mere atoms of French cambric some eight inches square, crisscrossed by woven lines of white in varying widths.

These Lilliputian handkerchiefs are 12s. the dozen, and tuck into a glove, sleeve or buttonhole ; and quite the latest novelty in masculine lingerie consists of French cambric handkerchiefs in white with a narrow coloured border. These are 3os. per dozen; others in pure white with a large check design skilfully interwoven in wide and barrow bands, being 37s. 6d. the dozen.

Fashions at Jaeger Depot at Regent Street

To the ignorant the name of Jaeger conjures up nothing more soul-inspiring than a vision of greyish wool undergarments, chiefly, be it frankly confessed, of the combination order. The enlightened, however, who are acquainted with the Jaeger depot in Regent Street know that it is possible to be clothed in Jaeger from top to toe and yet appear daintily feminine, or smartly sportswomanlike at will.

In support of the latter assertion let me quote a tightly-fitting, three-quarter length golf jacket, closely knitted in dark blue wool relieved with a single row of handsome gold buttons, or another, after the same style, in black with oxidised silver buttons. Norfolk jackets are distinctly fetching in various Scotch tartan designs, and knitted boleros, to the waist, look well in one colour, the collar and cuffs contrasting sharply in another shade. Other knitted coats are semi-fitting, admirably shaped, and reach some distance below the hips.

Here may I urge, from experience, that nothing is so comforting, worn under a heavy outer wrap, as a clinging wool jersey when motoring, yachting, or crossing the Atlantic on one of the big liners. A propos of the last I am led to speak of certain Jaeger bath wraps that are cosiness and comfort personified, and suggest themselves as ideal for board steamer wear.

One I have in mind at the moment is of fawn goats' hair, drawn in at the waist by a tasselled girdle, the deep collar and cuffs being edged with a narrow Lilting of Sevres blue silk. Kimono shaped is a dressing gown of brown camels' hair, bordered with green, a third possessing undeniable charms in rose-coloured flannel, glorified by the addition of a collar and cuffs fashioned from white lawn prettily embroided by hand in roses tied with true lovers knots in forget-me-not blue.

An i a host of blouses, I particularly recall one in cream delaine conspicuous for a high neck band and yoke of Valenciennes insertion joined together with rows of á jour stitch pale blue silk, further elaboration consisting of blue roses, white forget-me-nots and green leaves worked on the shoulders.

Reverting to the all important subject of comfort, the woman in search of it should make personal acquaintance with Jaeger corsets. These are soft and pliable to a remarkable degree, while specially planned for warm weather is a stay made from tape very slightly stiffened, and designed to be ti orn with, or without it, is a little bust support provided with shoulder straps.

This laces behind and fastens with a single button in front. For generously proportioned figures the " Eleanor," price 18s. 6d., commends itself. In common with all Jaeger corsets it is made from pure wool, but unlike the other models it laces down either side of the bust in front.

From stays to petticoats is a natural transition, hence I feel it incumbent upon me to mention some in woollen satin, in black, white and all colours, flounced to the knees with taffetas. Others, similarly glorified, are fashioned from woollen poplin, and " prevention " being avowedly " better than cure " it is perhaps not superfluous to whisper that in a jupon of the kind the traveller reduces to a minimum the dangers arising from chill.

Furnishings at Maple's

Let the modern be ever so skilfully made, highly finished and artistic, there is a fascination, born, no doubt, of sentiment, which clings to old furniture, while historical association lends a lustre that gold leaf cannot emulate. So mused I at Maple's, Tottenham Court Road, as, after passing through a maze of all that is newest and best in the house decoration of to-day, I stepped into the calm atmosphere of Queen Anne tables, chairs, inlaid cabinets, and sofas of quaint and harmonious design.

A little further on I paused before a set of tall Dutch chairs with narrow, inlaid backs and stamped velvet seats, once the property of Charles X. of France, and used by him during his sojourn in Holyrood Palace. A vast Normandy wardrobe, in darkest walnut, formerly belonged to the Empress Eugenie, and from the collection of the late Lord Cork is a superb cabinet surmounted by the two-headed eagle and Imperial crown of Austria.

This is a specially fine example of early Italian work and consists of ebony panelled in ivory, inlaid with a variety of tortoise-shell figures. Equally interesting is a magnificent antique Spanish cabinet with countless drawers and panels of tortoise-shell decorated with scenes engraved on silver.

Other objects de vertu are old Nankin ware, antique Sheffield plate, grandfather clocks, and many excellently-preserved examples of Sheraton, Heppelwhite and Chippendale. Here I pause to note that fashion at the moment inclines ever more to the old English in furniture. A propos of this I was shown no less than a hundred and fifty small tables, in the three styles just mentioned, and no two were alike.

Passing from furniture, I next investigated silk curtains, so beautifully woven that it seemed impossible to believe the flowers were not hand embroidered. Many designs are faithful copies of the antique and the shading seems as though it owes its subdued tints to the passage of time. Among a host of exquisite patterns one of the most striking shows gold butterflies and a trellis work in small green leaves, and tiny bright pink and blue flowers on a cream ground.

Another displays dull pink roses and sombre foliage against Gobelin blue, while a third reveals alternate stripes of vieux rose and ivory, and bronze baskets filled with trailing branches of roses. Attractive curtains, in self coloured taffetas, boast borders of gaily flowered brocades, others again being of plain silk edged with real lace applique. A pair of woollen curtains are effective bordered with a conventional design in cut silk traced with cord, and peculiarly appropriate to oak furniture are curtains of Genoa and old Jaspe velvet.

No visit to Maple's is complete that does not include the department dedicated to Oriental carpets. Here the connoisseur will find much to interest him in a few rare old Persian rugs and carpets, and especially in an antique prayer carpet that may well be described as unique. This depicts the holy places of the pilgrimage of Mecca and bears texts from the Koran.

In the nature of treasure trove are five moderately sized silk rugs from Yhiordes and Kula. These are very old, perfectly preserved, and cheap at £55 each. Saddle bags, made from carpet, hail from Persia, where they were the property of the fearless horsemen belonging to the wild tribes, and now serve the peaceful purpose of seats for chairs.

Then there are innumerable rugs and carpets from Turkey, Asia Minor, Afghanistan, and India, the special merit of an Oriental carpet being that instead of deteriorating, it improves with time.

Shopping for Antiques at George Trollope & Sons

To wander through Messrs. George Trollope & Sons' spacious premises in West Halkin Street, Belgrave Square, is as interesting to the lovers of the antique as a visit to a museum, with this advantage, that what one ardently covets does not partake of the nature of those grapes which grow out of reach.

Upon entering, the eye is inevitably attracted to a glass case containing a large assortment of old keys, elaborate examples of iron and brass work, and then the attention wanders to the quaintest of door knockers, most of which represent classical subjects and mythical animals. A passage is devoted to carved wooden and marble mantelpieces, many of which are after Adams, while others are highly ornate, a fact which generally suffices to betray their Italian origin.

A large and beautiful Gobelin tapestry, dated 1720, represents the toilet of Diana, and interest also attaches to wonderfully carved and brass adorned bridal chests and Venetian coffers. A tall, black oak chair, having a dull red velvet seat, belongs to the reign of James I., a second, upholstered in brocade, being Charles I.

Old armour and weapons make a brave show, and some handsome marble well heads bear one, on the swift wings of imagination, to the courtyards of ancient Italian palaces and the days when Savelli and Coronna were names to conjure with.

Long would one linger, oblivious of the flight of time, in a boudoir of the Regence period. The walls are panelled with oak, the carving outlined in gilt, and are taken from an old building in the south of Paris. Every detail is perfect, even to the tall doors with their enormous brass handles and elaborately decorated locks.

Gilt sconces hold wax tapers, marble-topped tables and cabinets rest heavily on gilt legs, and a musical chime sounds suddenly from a pendant clock, surmounted by a gilt goddess. Leading out of the boudoir is a smaller room in the same style, excepting that the panelling is not gilt.

Other objects to excite especial attention, where all is interesting, are four poster beds, a variety of mirrors, a Francois I. chair, conspicuous for dog-headed arms, and upholstered in claret-coloured velvet, a narrow strip of royal blue velvet, embroidered in gold, running down the back.

A quantity of Sheraton and Adams furniture appeals to the connoisseur who affects a style now much in vogue, and Italian and Oriental cabinets, screens, bronzes, and statues all claim their share of admiration. While investigating the many treasures with which the rooms and galleries are stocked, the visitors to Trollopes' should not omit an occasional glance upward at the ceilings.

The Irish Warehouse

Everything Irish ! Such is the patriotic boast of Inglis & Tinckler, The Irish Warehouse, 147, Regent Street, and one that sounds pleasantly persuasive when applied to linen. Be her political sympathies what they may, every housekeeper worthy of the name believes in a policy of home rule that champions the cause of Irish linen.

She knows the wear that is alone to be got out of hand-loom table cloths and napkins of satin damask, of the kind made a special feature of at 147, Regent Street, where the prices, by the way, are so reasonable as to make it seem truest economy to spend freely.

For instance, linen sheets two yards wide and three yards long are 10s. 9d. per pair,while cotton sheets, of the same size, are 6s. 6d. Proportionately inexpensive are exquisitely embroidered and lace inserted bed linen, napery and counterpanes.

In handkerchiefs, the assortment is seemingly inexhaustible. Ladies' hemstitched handkerchiefs, in genuine Irish cambric, start at 3s. 9d. per dozen, gentlemen's commencing at 5s. rid., in the same quality, but of a somewhat heavier make. Lace edged handkerchiefs, and initialled and hand embroidered handkerchiefs are present in great variety.

Distinctly different to anything else of the kind is the Belleek ware at the Irish Warehouse. Peculiarly light and very strong, this characteristic china suggests the term eggshell, it is so fine, while in colour it is a deep cream, highly glazed and tinged with rose at the edges. For an after-dinner coffee or tea service, it is most effective, and it also makes pretty fruit dishes and vases.

Another speciality at 147, Regent Street is the real Balbriggan hose. Cotton, lisle thread, spun, pure silk, and cashmere stockings all bear the stamp that is a guarantee of excellence the world over.

And last, though by no means least, there are the invincible poplins and the vast selection of Irish laces and crochet. The latter is sold by the yard in widths varying from halfan-inch to zr inches, and it is also present as collars, berthes, entire robes, boleros, jackets, and blouses.

Parisian Hat Company

Based on the settled conviction that variety is charming, especially when applied to women and millinery, it is a pet theory of mine that no hat should be expensive. For this reason I consider that it cannot be too widely known that the latest and daintiest French millinery is to be found at the Parisian Hat Co., 30, New Bond Street, where every hat and toque is alike marked 3os. od., a plan the convenience of which cannot be over estimated, as saving much mental arithmetic at the time of buying and many possible qualms of conscience later on.

Very new and quaint is a tiny toque of Wedgwood blue straw, shaped like a diminutive forage cap, the point arranged so as to rest on the left eyebrow, with marvellously coquettish effect, while about the back are grouped huge puffings of black satin that stand out in the becoming fashion of the bonnet dune nourrice. Very different, but no less chic, is a small oval sailor in cerise chip, the crown encircled by a ruching of velvet to match, a shaded cherry bird appearing at the left side and a double bow of velvet resting on the hair behind.

Another chapeau, suitable to a tailor-made costume, is of champagne coloured straw, the crown draped with sky blue taffetas tied in a butterfly bow across the right side in front, where it catches the stems of a green and a blue quill, a second bow nestling under the straight narrow brim behind the left ear.

Suggestive of the joys of muslin, Ranelagh, and unclouded sunshine, is a small hat in two kinds of ecru straw, the saucer brim raised au gauche with a bank of crimson rose and mauve lilac, and a twist of mauve velvet doing decorative duty about the crown. A large picture hat is possessed of much charm in black crinoline, the brim bound with black panne and the crown banded with the same, while near the left temple shows a black tulle rosette and a white ostrich feather.

For travelling nothing could be smarter or more appropriate than a narrow toque of draped cinnamon straw, coarsely plaited and trimmed with touches of brown velvet and a greenish brown bird.

Suggestive of more ornate occasions is a witching little hat in forget-me-not blue straw, the crown swathed with satin to match gathered into a formidable, upstanding bow at the left side, whence sweep a pair of blue ostrich feathers.

Walpole Bros - Where London Women Shop

Visitors to London, and especially women visitors, bent on seeing the various national institutions, should on no account miss calling at Walpole Bros., 89 and 90, New Bond Street. There they will be shown some of the finest damask and linen in the world, and if they are wise they will bear away with them, as a permanent memento, an illustrated catalogue depicting table cloths, pillow slips, bed spreads and towels of a kind to tempt the most virtuous housewife to break the tenth commandment.

For instance, what woman could resist the persuasions of a counterpane of white linen with a hemstitched border, and a drawn work design portraying broad bands of ribbon, tied in a true lovers' knot at each corner about the stems of a sheaf of lilies of the valley in raised white embroidery ? Its price, too, is not prohibitive, being only 67s. 6d. A table cloth to appeal to the fastidiously exclusive is of hand woven Irish double damask with a linked pattern of true lovers' knots about the border, tiny, stiff fleur de lys all over excepting just in the centre where is a woven monogram.

In drawn work, embroidered, and hemstitched handkerchiefs the variety of choice is almost bewilderingly great, and the same may be said of afternoon teacloths, and of certain entirely delightful pin cushions. Some are square, others are oblong, round and triangular shaped, and all have detachable linen covers made on the principle of pillow-slips, to take off and wash. They are beautifully embroidered, edged with lace, and adorned with the most adorably coquettish bows in coloured satin, which seem to have alighted butterfly fashion, haphazard.

From pin-cushions to lace curtains is not a far cry, and those at Walpoles certainly repay investigation. The designs are exclusive, the quality exceptional, and the price moderation itself, while no housewife needs to be reminded that good curtains point the way to true economy.

Savoy Taylors' Guild Fashions

When all is said and done, no mode yet devised by fashion suits the average woman quite so well as the tailor-made ; provided the cut and fit be good, the style selected is sure to prove becoming. Nevertheless, it is best to see a variety of designs before finally deciding upon any one in particular, and this advantage is afforded by the numerous models to be found and tried on at the Savoy Taylors' Guild, Savoy Court, and 94, Strand.

A smart coat, planned with a view to the requirements of the motorist in particular and fair travellers in general, is contrived from dark blue and green plaid. This is tightly-fitting to the waist, where a skilfully-devised seam marks the commencement of a pleated basque to the ground.

A highly decorative accessory is a little bolero effect provided with big revers and fastened with monster buttons in dull metal, the straight collar reaching well up to the ears. An attractive walking costume consists of grey tweed, ruled vertically with fine dotted lines of white.

The three-quarter length coat moulds the figure with creaseless perfection, while the sole relief allowed is a turned - down collar of grey velvet. Hip pockets and a single row of smoked pearl buttons lend finishing touches, the skirt being absolutely plain. Five guineas is the price of a Norfolk suit in a dark tartan tweed.

The beautifully hanging skirt falls in groups of pleats on the hips and behind, and the distinguishing features of the jacket, which is cut on :the cross to match the jupe, are the yoke and waistband.

Fashioned from a new French material conspicuous for a bold plaid pattern in blue and white is an afternoon toilet of the utmost chic. The umbrella skirt is met by a deep belt that bears a design in tiny turquoise and gold enamel buttons and light blue and silver cord au devant.

This same design is carried up the front of the bolero, which reveals a turned-down collar and epaulettes, edged with wide blue galon, gold cord and silver braid. A loose full-length coat, in brown, green and cream check, appears to advantage, made with roomy side pockets, a military belt behind and a special collar that can be strapped about the neck to protect the ears when motoring. The prices charged by the Savoy Tailors' Guild are exceedingly moderate, the cut and fit are admirable, and, when desired, customers' own materials are employed.

This is the 1906 installment of Mrs. Aria tour of the London shops in search of the lastest fashions for Women. Published by the Cunard Line in the Annual Fashion and Resort Fashion Supplement.

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