Early Winter Millinery (Hats) - Vintage Women's Fashions from 1900
The fancy for tinsel dominates the millinery world this season to a surprising
surprising degree. Gold braid and glittering gold ornaments are lavishly used and are associated with velvet, lace and silk in the decoration of both dressy creations and those intended for general wear.
Beautiful creations consist entirely of cloth-of-gold richly embroidered in iridescent spangles and gold threads, with jewels scattered here and there ; or black Escurial lace having the design worked out in chenille may be used to overlay the tinsel. Long, narrow gold buckles with an introduction of jet or cut steel or with the gold embossed in heraldic or conventional designs are among the most effective bits of decoration for fashionable Winter headgear.
Soft, graceful draperies, folds and choux of silk, panne, tulle and other fabrics, arranged to produce a low, flat effect, constitute the trimming of the most approved modes, the only additional ornamentation in many examples being a plume that rests over the flaring brim at the left side, a gold or rhinestone buckle holding it in position.
The Season's Hat Brim
In this season's hats the brim will flare over the face and at the side and dip over the coiffure at the back. The crowns are low and somewhat bell shaped. The fur or velvet turban with low crown and rolling brim, decorated with breasts, will be an extremely fashionable mode, and the Amazon and picturesque Gainsborough types will lose none of their popularity. Care should be exercised when the latter shape is selected, as the effect is almost grotesque if the hat is worn by any other than one to whom it is suited.
Charming Gainsborough Hat
A charming Gainsborough hat was made of black taffeta disposed over the bell crown and wide brim in tucks of different sizes. The brim was faced with white tulle, tucked. At the left side the brim flared, and on the bandeau adjusted beneath was a ehou of tulle secured by a rhinestone buckle. The only other ornamentation consisted of four short black plumes that were disposed against the crown at the left side. A fair, youthful wearer of tall, slender stature would find this creation very becoming.
Tam-O'-Shanter Style Hat
A hat expressing the fashionable combination of black, white and gold was round in shape. The crown was composed of cloth-of-gold arranged in full Tam-O'-Shanter style and was uniquely ornamented with a large butterfly in appliquéed black Chantilly lace. Black velvet folds formed the brim and a drapery of white tulle encircled the crown, and loops of the textile were arranged at the left side. A soft fold of the tulle was brought over the brim, which flared slightly, and was secured by a long scroll ornament of gold and cut steel. Loops of gold braid rested on the hair with pleasing effect.
A stylish hat carrying out the same color scheme had a low, flat draped crown of black velvet caught up on top with a round gold ornament, and a rolling brim covered with cloth-of-gold overlaid with black Escurial lace. A single white plume lying flat over the brim at the left side was secured by a small chou of velvet holding a gold ornament to match the one on the top of the crown. This hat would he a fitting accompaniment to a black velvet gown trimmed with gold lace and fancy black and gold appliqué and could also be suitably worn with a less pretentious toilette.
Reseda-green, an artistic tint, has sustained a noticeable revival this season, and a new hat of rare beauty shows this color associated with gold, black and silver. The crown is bell shaped and made of green panne ; it is cord-shirred and forms a narrow ruffle that falls slightly over the brim of pale-green tulle, which is veiled in black net embroidered in black and gold spangles and gold and silver threads. A wired bow of the green panne and a chou of tulle in a lighter shade rest on the hair at the left side, and a beautiful plume shading from very pale to dark green, secured by a rhinestone buckle through which a fold of the panne is thrust, waves gracefully over the crown at the side.
The hat would be charming with a carriage or reception gown in this dainty shade.
Modish hats are made of breasts and wings of grebe, which this season is procurable in charming hues, peacock and pheasant and also owl and goura, and when becoming are extremely pleasing with tailor gowns.
A low, flat turban with a crown of owls' feathers and a rolling brim covered with shaded-brown breasts had au owl's head in front and white tulle disposed in soft loops beneath the brim at the left side, a softening and becoming effect being given the rather severe and unique mode.
An attractive example of the fashionable breast trimming is seen in a turban with the crown made of seal-brown velvet, corded, and the rolling brim of two pheasant breasts in beautiful tints of blue, green, brown and dark brown.
Flowers in Winter Modes
Flowers in rich, shaded velvet are an important feature in the Winter modes. A hat of rare beauty and good style, suggesting the picturesque shepherdess shape, had the low, flat crown composed entirely of velvet roses shading from a rich dahlia hue to a brighter tone, and the brim was made of panne in the dahlia tint arranged in shirred tucks. A large, loose knot of velvet artistically disposed at the centre of the front gave the essential height to the creation, which represented one of the season's most fascinating effects.
The Low Crown Hat
The effectiveness of black and white was uniquely exemplified in a low-crown hat made of pure-white wings and trimmed with black velvet, becoming height being given by the disposition of the wings. The brim was formed of the wings placed one over the other all around and was flared prettily at the left side, where a simple knot of velvet rested on the hair. A soft fold of the velvet encircled the crown, and a broad Alsatian bow of velvet was placed in front.
A touch of bright red is always pleasing at this season, and a delightful bit of headgear was made of red velvet, chiffon of the same shade and red plumes. The rather high-peaked crown of the hat, which was in Continental shape, and the brim, which flared off the face and was pointed at each side, were formed respectively of alternate rows of folded chiffon and corded velvet. Seven small plumes disposed at the left side of the front were held in position by two handsome gold pins that were thrust through a loose knot of velvet adjusted against the flaring brim in front.
Street or General Use Hats
Very dark blue and bright green are associated in a stylish hat intended for street or general wear. The hat is of blue felt, so soft and pliable as to be draped to form the low crown and wide brim. A drapery of green velvet is disposed around the crown and laid in fine plaits to face the brim, which flares slightly at the left side. A knot of velvet rests on the hair, and two loops adjusted against the crown serve as an effective background for a large, flat wing carrying out the tints expressed in the felt and velvet, a touch of gold and red being added.
The Introduction of Mink
The introduction of mink in a hat of the picture type, made of chenille-embroidered black Escurial lace and pink velvet and tulle, represents one of the season's most approved fancies. The entire hat is made of the rich black lace, and the brim is faced with tiny folds of the pink velvet, while soft loops of the dainty pink tulle are entwined with velvet loops that rest on the hair. An oblong cut-jet buckle secures these loops against the flaring brim, and the mink. which is arranged on the edge of the brim at the left side—passing from the centre of the front to the back--, Lnds a dintinguê air to the creation.
Rows of machine-stitching give a decorative effect to round felt hats that are intended for general wear. The idea is exemplified in a hat of castor felt with a low, indented crown ard wide brim that is satin faced. The stitching appears a regular intervals apart over the entire hat and is done in silk a tone or two darker than the felt.
Folds of white chiffon resting against a black velvet band edged with narrow gold braid form the trimming around the crown, and several loops of chiffon that appear to he tied with broader gold braid are disposed a little toward the left of the front. The satin used to face the brim is in a shade to match the machine-stitching. This hat would
be a pleasing and suitable accompaniment to a tailor gown of castor cloth with gold braid trimmings.
An attractive hat of royal-blue felt that may be worn upon almost all occasions is round in shape and has the brim faced in white felt laid in tiny tucks. White Louisine is arranged in simple folds around the low crown, and a band of gold braid gives a pleasing heading. A ninny-looped bow made of soft white silk and glittering gold braid is disposed at the left side of the front, and two odd-shaped black and white hand-painted quills rest over the brim from the front to the back.
Sable and velvet in a castor tone are combined in a pretty creation of the Continental type. The brim is formed of loops of the fur, each loop being secured by a round gold ornament, and the crown of velvet is beautified by three spider-webs wrought out of fine gold threads ; a gold spangle holding a rhinestone is in the centre of each web. A short plume in the castor shade is secured at the left side of the front by two jewelled pins. This dressy creation may be worn with a carriage gown of velvet or one of cloth in the castor hue.
A simple but stylish hat that may be worn with a variety of costumes is made of black velvet over an odd-shaped turban frame. The velvet is draped artistically over the entire frame, accentuating the rolled brim only at the front, where a long, narrow gold and cut-steel buckle is placed. The fashionable low, flat effect is carried out in the arrangement of the velvet. The same idea expressed in a rich brown velvet or in two shades of blue or red would be attractive worn with a gown to match.
Illustration 1: Early Winter Hats
DESCRIPTIONS OF MILLINERY PLATES. (PAGES 659 AND 660.)
FIGURE No. 1. (Top Left)—This hat is made of black taffeta shirred over a frame, the trimming consisting of rose satin-Liberty artistically disposed and caught with a gold buckle. The crown is low and in bell shape, and the brim, which is rather wide, flares off the face. A loose knot of the satin-Liberty at the front appears to hold the flaring brim in position, and a soft drapery of satin rests against the brim and falls on the hair. A gold buckle through which the satin is passed provides additional decoration to the brim facing. This mode is suitable only to youthful wearers.
FIGURE No. 2. (Bottom Left)—Russian-blue panne and shaded, speckled quills are associated in this modish toque, the panne being draped to produce the fashionable low, flat effect. The quills, which shade from blue to green and are flecked with gold, are disposed directly at the centre of the front. This toque is especially suitable for wear with a tailor gown of cloth in a shade to match the panne, or may be worn with pleasing effect with a black gown.
FIGURE No. 3. (Center)—Golden-brown velvet and chinchilla are associated in this stylish toque. The velvet is arranged over the crown, which is fashionably low, and an Alsatian bow effect is produced in front by an artistic arrangement of the velvet. The brim at the right side is covered with the fur, which is used in plume effect at the left side. An aigrette of gray and brown feathers adjusted at the front gives becoming height. The mode will be charming with a tailor gown.
FIGURE No. 4. (Top Right)—This hat of panne is in -one of the most approved shapes. The crown is rather high and formed of panne arranged in tiny folds, and the brim is rolling, the panne beirg draped over it in pleasing style. A buckle is disposed on the brim a little to the left of the front, apparently securing the flat feathers, which introduce a touch of green in the mode. This hat will be effective carried out in any preferred color scheme.
FIGURE No. 5. (Bottom Right)—The picture type is suggested by this hat of rich red felt, of which the trimming consists of black plumes, black velvet ribbon and silk in a contrasting shade. The brim is straight and wide and the crown low. The fashionable flat effect is achieved by the disposition of the plumes and looped bow of velvet ribbon at the left side. A soft chou of Louisine in a pastel tone rests on the hair beneath the brim at the left side.
Illustration 2: Advance Winter Millinery
FIGURE No. 6. (Top Row, Center)—This stylish turban is composed of a low, flat crown, over which cloth is effectively draped, and a rolling brim that is covered with mink. Two speckled quills at the left side give becoming height to the mode, which is particularly suitable for wear with a tailor costume of cloth of the color used in the crown. Castor cloth and mink would be an attractive combination.
FIGURE No. 7. (Middle Row, Left)—Hats of chinchilla are always charming accompaniments to smart jackets trimmed with this silvery fur. This attractive toque of chinchilla will be becoming when the hair is worn in Pompadour style. The low crown is in bell shape, and the brim is rolling. A large black velvet bow arranged in front spreads out at each side, producing an approved effect. The velvet bow could be of some becoming color if a less sombre effect be desired.
FIGURE No. 8. (Middle Row, Center)—This modish hat, in which dotted Louisine and mink are associated, will be found almost universally becoming. The fashionably low crown is formed of Louisine having a white ground polka-dotted with brown. The brim is of mink and flares at the left side. Two mink tails disposed at the left side supply the only ornamentation to the mode, which is particularly suited to wear with a brown tailor suit and a boa and muff of mink.
FIGURE No. 9. (Middle Row, Right)—This modified walking shape is made of Persian lamb, with trimmings of panne, plumes and a jet buckle. The brim of the hat is straight over the eyes, gracefully rolling at each side, and the crown is low and flat. There is a soft drapery of the panne around the crown, and the buckle is adjusted in front. Two black plumes at the left side complete the adornment of this smart model. Sable, mink and chinchilla would develop a stylish flat of this type.
FIGURE No. 10. (Bottom Row, Center)--Silver-gray panne and chinchilla were associated in this dressy little toque, of which the crown is low and the brim round and roiling. The crown is made of panne, chinchilla being used to cover the brim. Panne cleverly disposed forms the trimming and is arranged in soft loops at each side of the front and caught at the centre on the brim with a buckle. Two pompons of black and white feathers are placed in front between the loops of velvet.