Vintage Fashions - Ladies Calling Toilettes - 1900
FIGURES Nos. 152 T AND 153 T.—CALLING TOILETTES.
FIGURE No: 152 T.—This unites a Ladies' waist and skirt. The waist pattern, which is No. 4380 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is again shown on page 446. The skirt pattern, which is No. 4406 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is differently pictured on page 456.
Yoke-waists have attained great popularity this season, and the charming one forming part of this fashionable toilette is sure to win admiration. It is here pictured made of lavender silk in combination with figured net and is decorated with lace frills and ribbon. The skirt is of fine broadcloth of a darker shade and is finished in tailor style with machine-stitching.
The fronts and back of the waist are in Pompadour outline and reveal the smooth yoke, which is finished with a standing collar. The waist has pretty fulness at the centre of the front and back regulated by shirrings, those at the top forming a frill heading. The fronts puff out stylishly, and the closing is made at the left side. The sleeve is an important feature of the mode and is quite fancy. It consists of an over-sleeve that is gathered to form a frill heading just below the elbow and a short full under-sleeve completed with a wristband.
The skirt is a unique design, introducing a yoke at the sides and back, and is fully described at Figure No. 143 T. The waist may be developed with good effect in taffeta, surah, Liberty and India silks or soft woolens combined with all-over lace or fancy tucking, and the skirt in vicuna, camel's-hair, serge, twill, cross-canvas meshes and English suiting.
FIGURE No. 153 T.—LADIES' BASQUE-WAIST OR BODICE, WITH STRETCHED BACK AND BOLERO FRONTS. (TO BE MADE WITH AN "1550" SLEEVE, OR A PLAIN SLEEVE WITH A FLARE CUFF.)
This embraces a Ladies' shirt-waist and skirt. The shirt-waist pattern, which is No. 4414 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is again shown on page 449. The skirt pattern, which is No. 3892 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure.
Lace, which has been so lavishly employed as a garniture in this season's toilettes, has a close rival in black velvet ribbon, many effective results being achieved by the employment of the latter. Black velvet ribbon was associated with silk ruchings in the decoration of the stylish toilette here pictured made of figured and plain India silk and allover lace.
The shirt-waist or knotted surplice is distinguished by scarf fronts tied over a removable chemisette and has gathered fulness at the bottom both front and back. The waist blouses fashionably in front, and the fancy sailor-collar is a stylish feature of the mode. The comfortably close sleeves are of the two-seam variety and have flare cuffs that fall over the hand, and a high standing collar finishes the neck of the chemisette.
Three graduated circular flounces contribute to the gracefulness of the five-gored skirt, which is fitted perfectly smooth at the top by a dart at each side and has pretty fulness at the back disposed in an underlying box-plait.
Vailing, voile, Lansdowne, cashmere, Liberty satin, taffeta and numerous other fabrics will pleasingly develop both the skirt and waist. The collar could be of batiste, grass linen, fine lawn, embroidery or lace and the chemisette of tucked material.